Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

I may have one for a 1940 110 but can't be sure until I'm next at my Oregon shop and not sure if it's the same as '41. If you're still looking then, I'll see what I can find. However, it seems like something not too difficult to fabricate.

Pat,

Chiming in a little late here, and this is for a 1940 Super 8, but I started with a single piece of hose from the bottom of the radiator to the engine inlet. It was reinforced with a metal spring. The correct arrangement is for 2 short 3" pieces of 1-3/4 standard (not reinforced) radiator hose, one at the top and one at the bottom, with the metal pipe in between.

David Moe, Packard Seattle, dmoeenterprises@cs.com had several and sent a photo of the ones he thought might work for 1940. We picked one that had the right length and bends, cleaned it up and installed it.

I want to thank the person who sent me that photo of the set up to get us started, but I can't remember who.

Here are some photos that may help.

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If the 110 uses the metal tube then going by the photos Max has of the all hose pieces the biggest difference will most likely be the long length of the tube. Joe's photos with dimensions and Max's hoses looks to show about a 1 1/2" shorter length distance needed for the 110. The one on the right in Joe's last photo might be correct if it is still available.

I'll get the radiator in the car today (re-cored) I will then mount the two rubber one on the radiator and one on the pump I'm thinking then make a mock up and have a muffler shop bend me a pipe until it fits....... Can a muffler shop put a ridge into each end of the pipe to hold the hose on?

I don't know if a muffler shop can bead the ends or not but if they cannot then coating the inside hose and tube ends with gasket shellac is an alternative that will make for a tight seal. Once the shellac dries the hose will be stuck tightly and highly unlikely to slide off. The portion of hose on the tube will need to be slit and peeled away if you want to remove it.

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Radiator shops sometimes can get pre-beaded pieces that can be brazed, welded or soldered in place. I've had water outlets repaired that way and it works well and, done properly, is invisible.

Pat, re the serrations on the hose-bib end of the pipe, I agree with the gasket shellac approach and with the low pressure, it will give you an adequate seal. One thing to note: most folks install 2 clamps on the hose and so often, you see them line up the gear housings. While this looks nice and neat, it is not the best method to ensure a good seal. Any gear clamp or bolt type clamp, when tightened on a hose, imposes a 'teardrop' force on the hose, with the tip of the teardrop being the the tightening point. Having them lined up creates a leak-path, while opposing the clamps to have one gear housing or tightening bolt on either side of the hose will ensure a better seal. Just the musings of an old hose guy, but trust me, it works!!

Thanks newbie? The physics of what your saying makes sense and I never thought of using 2 clamp but I will........ Just need somewhere local to get them. I want to use the same style of clamps on the heater hose as well.

Stainless steel T-bolts would be a good option.

https://www.amazon.ca/Pro-Tie-33735-T-Bolt-Stainless/dp/B00D4MKYRK?th=1&psc=1&source=googleshopping&locale=en-CA&tag=googcana-20&ref=pd_sl_175k72kdnt_e

I think that Max still stocks them, give them a call