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For those looking for the stainless channel that holds the weatherstrip on either the windshield post to vent window or these convertible B-pillar posts.

This Ford part is pretty much identical. The B-pillar ones must be bent to match the window/wood radius.

https://bobdrake.com/products/1940-51-convertible-window-seal-retainer-channel

This applies to 1936-1937 Junior Convertibles but may cross to other years and senior convertibles as well.

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Another project I finished this past week was installing the correct slider map light switch. This is the rusty switch seen in a post a few days ago, cleaned up and working.

I have the switch set up from the map light (using that cleaned-up rusty socket) and the backup light. The other side of the switch originally turned on the dash lights. But I have that wired to the headlight switch, so not needed.

But, since the backup light is manual, I wanted something that let me know when it was ON so I didn't accidentally leave it on. It is wired off the ignition, so there is no danger of it being on when the car is off.

I also removed the under-dash switch controlling the SU carbs' electric choke. It is now controlled by the throttle dash knob.

So, I also wanted an indicator to tell me when the electric choke was on. I created this little panel from 16 gauge steel metal that bent into a 90-degree and painted dash color. It's bolted to the dash using one of the existing screws that hold the speedo panel in place. It has two LEDs. The blue (left) one lets me know the choke is on, and the white (right) lets me know when the backup light is still on.

All of this helps me eliminate most of the non-original switches under the dash.

I still have one on the driver's side of the dash for the fuel pump.

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I am struggling to ID the correct hardware used in the four areas circled in this picture. The parts list and associated diagram are not a great help, and some of what I would assume are the bolts or screws just have a part number without any information about the specs of the hardware, or a group 50 pointer like the other hardware. Also, I think there are typos in the manual, as there is a reference to a 1087 model, which doesn't appear to be valid.

So for my 37 115-C (Model 1089) I see four areas of hardware.

The Yellow area is through the bracket and into the wood bow. So I assume this is a screw of some type with no nut/fastener on the backside. 1/4" slotted oval head?

The Orange area is probably 1/4-20 (3/4"?) oval head with a washer and acorn nut.

On the Red area, these appear to be flat heads, not sure if there are screws in the wood or bolts with nuts. I am sure there are also some other fasteners in that metal/wood B-pillar sandwich.

On the aqua area, wood screws as well?

For anyone with a similar model (120C convertible coupe would be the same), or has mystical parts book knowledge, please let me know what hardware I need to source.

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Hi Kev,
I will send you an image of the running board I have and if you want it we will work out how to get it to you from Down Under.
Regards Pepe

Kev
Do you need me to take close-up photos of anything on that car?

West, thanks. I'll let you know. But Bob Johnson was able to get me pictures and fastener measurements from his 120-C, which is the same, so I think I have my answers for now.

Top fasteners ordered from Bolt Depot. Most of it is in stainless, but order those acorn cap nuts and washers in chrome as they are pretty visible.

I like that you can order exact quantities without having to buy a box.

Also, they stock most of the slotted sizes, which the local hardware stores do not.

Got the blanks cut of the 8/4 ash. I cut the blanks long as each end has a diagonal cut on it.

Lots of milling still needed.

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This evening I finished making new B-Pillar wood post. I'm sure Packard had special jigs and bit for mas producing these. But I have it my best shot. Every side has a different angle and I also had to make a right one from the left pattern I was working off of. I'm sure originally the cut out were done with a router bit. I didn't have one large enough, so I just a forstner bit and over lapped the holes and the hacked away the extra with a chisel. All of the is sandwiched inside metal channel with the metal bow and the arms that support the rear wood bow. So none of these reliefs are visible in this sandwich of parts. Not to bad is I do say so myself.

Also the new pivot pins arrived from Bruce Blevins. They are an exact copy of what I drilled out, but made in stainless.

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Beautiful work, Kev. Tom Silva (This Old House) would admire this.