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Hello Kev,
I will check my parts stock, the cost of freight may be more than you would like to pay as it is set on volume and weight.
The running board looks good.
Regards Pepe

A Rear fender should be an easier find as they cross with more potential models. So not too worried there.

Rumble seat back in and adjusted. Had to repeat the procedure with the wood frame that I did on the trunk and reshape it with a grinder. A lot more involved then the trunk is for sure to get the everything flush.

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Unless an optical illusion, am curious if the rumble seat photo is just to show the lid fits and opens or if that is as far rearward as the seat back leans. It looks to be almost straight up and down and I would think, fairly uncomfortable.

It's just the angle the photo was taken. It has a lean to it.

If anyone is looking for the mounting clips that hold the stainless trim along the outside of the running board and fender. Here is a replacement clip that fits the bill, same width and stud size. You can buy 25-count boxes of them for about $24 on Amazon. I believe 30 of them are needed for a 115-C (15 down each side).

https://www.auveco.com/moulding-clips-retainers/universal-moulding-fastener-10-24-x-3-4-bolt-19378

Interesting they used mounts like that in 1937 as my 1939, 1940s and 1941 had push-in clips many of which I still have. Maybe the latter was a cost-cutting effort.

The clips you are describing are correct. This is an alternative clip that is still available and fits the trim channel.

Started to strip down the running board so I can do some of the minor repairs needed to it.

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I started with the repairs on the running board. I shot it with some glass bead to remove the surface rust in the hard to reach areas.

There was some deep pitting and some pin holes in some areas. So I've started to use some Evercoat Metal 2 Metal filler. It's an epoxy-based filler with an aluminum substrate. So when it hardens, you can sand it, drill it, and tap it. I've used it in places where conventional filler would not be appropriate. But this stuff is very durable and is applied directly to bare metal. Great in situations where you need to fill holes and pits and where welding would not be the best option (aka thin metal).

Also, I replace the rear hex bumper bolts with shorter ones. The prior ones were too long on the unthreaded portion and that required a stack of washers to draw it tight. These new/used bolts are the correct length, and just needed a fresh coat of red paint.

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