Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

I am trying to fix my door lock strike plate as it does not stay completely shut, and it looks loose. There looks to be what appears to be a grommet or rubber underneath? Is that the case? I did a search on Steele but nothing came back. But I may be searching under the wrong name?

Thoughts appreciated!
Ben

Attach file:

---

  strike plate.jpg (261.55 KB)

I'm pretty sure the rubber is vulcanized onto the striker. I'd call Max Merrit and see if they offer replacements. The may want your old ones for cores.

My car has flat rubber under both door strikers. It's old and rotten, but what is exposed looks to be about 1/16" thick rubber, much like inner tube rubber. My latches stay tight. You could probably make some of the rubber pieces from an inner tube. I'd clean up all dirt and old grease and lubricate the door latch mechanism. I use Door-Eze on the striker and dovetail. Ivory soap will do about as well. If you take out both screws from the plate, the threaded inner plate inside the door post may fall down inside. I'd take one screw out, then put a piece of wire through the hole, then take the other screw out and take the plate off the wire, leaving the wire in place. Bend the wire 90 degrees about an inch from one end and insert that end into the door post with the 90 turned up.

It may indeed be bonded to the plate. I don't see how the thing could ever stay tight with just a rubber shim between the parts.

ok.. Thanks both! Will reach out to Max, and take them off with care and clean them up.

30-0398-71
Steele.
Common service.

Thanks. Yes just go off the phone with them.

https://www.steelerubber.com/door-lock-striker-service-30-0398-71

The door striker plate is composed of two pieces of metal with rubber in between. The rubber is vulcanized to the metal surfaces with the addition of sulfur and temperature to harden the rubber and to strengthen the bond to the metal surfaces. For a hefty price Steele will re-vulcanize your striker plate but you must have both metal pieces. I only had one complete metal striker plate on my car and two metal pieces with no rubber - I used urethane rubber to bond to the metal, for the other missing striker plates I was able to find solid SS Ford plates for the rear doors that have worked well - so far.