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Re: Help with carburetor
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Moodydavied16
The ‘flat disk’ valve is known as a ‘Daytona design’. The only downside of this design is the use of ‘extra’ seat gaskets to set the float level. While float level setting is covered in the Daytona directions, and millions of Zenith carburetors use ‘extra’ gaskets to set the float level, on occasion the tab on the float will not be set to touch the center of the Daytona valve. Excessive side force will result in a leaking valve, and engine flooding will likely follow. Since the valve is free of rotate the depression in the seat may appear to be the same all the way around, but that pesky side force may still be the culprit. IMO the flooding and idle problem are likely related. In your second picture the valve in the lower right looks a lot like the accelerator pump check valve. dp
Posted on: 2023/11/27 22:44
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Re: Help with carburetor
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Dirt/rust is likely source of your problem. Install a 10 micron filter on discharge of fuel pump. (Jegs)
Posted on: 2023/11/28 9:51
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Re: Help with carburetor
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Ahh, yes that would make sense as the rebuild kit I got was from Daytona parts Quote:
That is entirely possible as I was not the one who took it apart and I just guessed/assumed it was a part of the needle and seat. -Thanks for this information!
Posted on: 2023/11/28 11:32
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Re: Help with carburetor
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I realize this is a common cause of issues, however I respectfully disagree. I just don’t think dirt/rust is my problem. I’m not using the original fuel tank so I know for a fact that is clean. I also flushed the old lines out and plan on completely replacing them soon. I am also using a filter before and after the pump as well as a clear one right before the carburetor. Also when I took the carburetor apart and cleaned it again yesterday there was little(if any) dirt/rust inside.
Posted on: 2023/11/28 12:13
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Re: Help with carburetor
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If the carburetor overflows or leaks internally, something is wrong. It takes very little foreign matter to cause carburetor trouble. Screens and filters help, but I have often found debris in carburetors that have both screens and filters in place. A new installation should have NO debris in the carburetor or filters or screens. Sometimes fuel leaks around the needle's seat where it it screwed into the air horn or bowl. That's worth a careful check even if it is tight. Once in a while, a new needle/seat will fail to seal properly. Even a very tiny defect can allow poor seating.
Posted on: 2023/11/28 12:26
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Re: Help with carburetor
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Yes the problem of flooding in this case was due to the Daytona float valve being damaged. If you look closely you can see the rubber pad is torn in the picture attached. Attach file:  IMG_2241.png (2,248.41 KB)
Posted on: 2023/11/28 12:38
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Re: Help with carburetor
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If it's still stalling out, need to check if fuel or ignition problem. Check for spark as it dies. Timing light or spark tester.
See attachment on adjusting. Anti-percolation circuit on these. I suspect it wasn't done right but can't tell over the internet. If they don't bench or engine test, and spec sheet can't tell if it's right when it comes back. A good shop will test. '49 is WDG and I rebuilt myself and it would idle at 400 rpm for as long as I let it run - no heat-up, no stall out. Engine compartment wiring & ignition was fresh.
Posted on: 12/3 22:17
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46-48_Repair_Tuneup_Manual.pdf|
Re: Help with carburetor
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It takes a VERY large amount of pressure to damage one of those valves like that. Even if you just turn the air horn upside down, the weight of the floats on it will not even cause a visible indentation after immediate disassembly.
My guess is they were bending the floats in a very careless way. Probably with needle valves it would not have been a problem.
Posted on: 12/4 2:20
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'55 400. Needs aesthetic parts put back on, and electrical system sorted.
'55 Clipper Deluxe. Engine is stuck-ish. |
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