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It's usually easier to take off the whole front clip. That means all the bodywork forward of the windshield.

This is installed as a unit at the factory.

To remove a front clip, start by covering the roof with old quilts or blankets.

Remove the hood by taking the bolts out where the hood bolts to the hinges. Lift up the hood, carry it back and set it on the roof. The blankets protect the roof and keep it from sliding off.

The front clip comes off next. It is usually fastened by 4 bolts at the back and 2 at the front.

The back bolts are at the rear of the fenders where they meet the body. One on each side at the top, accessed under the hood. And one on each side at the bottom, accessed under the car.

The front of the front clip rests on the front of the frame at the rad support. Look under the radiator area for 2 rubber mounts with bolts thru them. With these bolts removed, and the rear bolts removed, it is possible to lift the whole front clip off and carry it away.

You should have 2 men to lift the hood and at least 2 for the front clip.

This is a generic description of a typical 40s, 50s or 60s car with body on frame construction. There may be slight details specific to Packard.

Once the front clip is off you should remove the bumper for more working room and pad the ends of the frame so you don't rip your shins to shreds walking around it. Foam rubber and duct tape does a good job.

Believe you'll find several more bolts than that on those series Packards--like a few behind the tire into frame for starters. If you do lift it off in one piece, it's VERY heavy. Lift it evenly up and over any obstructions keeping both sides level, no twisting-no spreading apart at rear. Avoid any stress on the pot metal at all--it does break. Keep careful track of any spacers & rubber under the radiator cradle bolts. There may be different number & thickness spacers side to side. Rubber will probably disintegrate or be smashed & dry. Those spacers affect the hood & fender alignment considerably.

At some point I too will be removing the front clip. I am very afraid of cracking the pot metal grill. Would it be advisable to remove the grill before removing any fenders?

BTW: I already have a small crack in the grill I think I caused myself. I was at a car show on a windy day. Went off and left the hood up. When I came back it was down. Between the wind and the force of gravity the hood came crashing down. Since then I have seen many people install a prop to hold the hood up. "GOOD IDEA"

Carl,

I just sent you an email with an attachment from the 1951-54 Service Manual. Outlines fender and grille removal. Check it out.

For others interested, sect 10-sheet metal of service manual details this. There are a few extra items they have you remove that is not absolutely necessary.

While the entire clip can be removed as a unit, I personally would not attempt it. Weight with all still attached would probably be in the range of 5-600 lbs, bulky, hard to maneuver & store. If memory serves each fender has to lift about 12-18 or so inches & at a slight angle to clear the suspension. Trying to do a clip with all the weight and not stress anything would be a chore. Probably take 4 well co-ordinated people.

No way to remove just a fender without unbolting the grill from that side so don't think it could be left in at all without risking damage--never tried.

I know I should read the manual more, but often it states 'remove part' and doesn't get into detail on how; it assumes that an experienced mechanic is reading the document, and not a hobbyist 57 years later.

I'll read it, thanks for the advice.

I do have a cherry picker / engine hoist, in theory I could use that to remove the clip all at once if that would make it easier.

Any other experiences out there? This is great information, I appreciate every response.

The 51-56 models are not really the best to try to remove the front clip as a single unit. I frankly don't think the core support would hold all the fender weight by itself. Nor would I want to put that stress on the potmetal grille.

This is how I removed by front clip:

Remove hood from hinges. Leave the hinges attached to the firewall
Remove the panel over the radiator
Remove the grille
Remove battery
Remove fresh air ducting
Disconnect wiring at the fender terminal blocks on both sides. (take a picture and label the wiring.
Undo and of the wiring clamps or hose clamps on both fenders.
If you have a washer pump, remove it.

Fenders are next. Spray all visible bolts with PB Blaster, wait 24 hrs

You will find a bolt near the top of cowl near the hinges. (Leave that one till almost last.)

There are one or two one the bottom side directly fender near the corner of the door. These are usually the really rusty ones. So lots of PB and patience, or you will snap them off.

There are an assortment of bolts where the lower portion of the fender contacts the frame from the back to the front. A good light and a wire brush will help you find them all. Some of the bolts are threaded into the frame, other have a nut on the backside.

After you have all the frame bolts out remove the bolts from the rear top (cowl) of the fender, and the where the fender attaches to the radiator core.
Remove various splash pans, etc.

I left the bumper on mine while I did it as the bracket bolts were frozen. I had to use an impact on them later.

I did this all by myself, probably not the best idea. So if you have a spare set of hands, them use them.

Thanks BigKev!

Tonight I put PB Blaster on all the bolts surrounding the front two fenders and the grill. I removed the hood and battery. I removed one of the two parking light lens; one is stubborn and won't spin out. Ideas?

I can't help your with the '52 Parking lights as I have never removed them. The 53/54 holes are different and are held in place with a few small screws.