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I wanted to install the running board trim on the passenger side, but in order to do that I needed to get that part of the front fender somewhere back to a normal shape. This fender had a rough life.




After initial rough out.




Close enough for now. So a quick shot of rattle black.





And trim installed.

Looks like you managed your usual magic! Looking really good.

Trying to figure out why the spacing between the roll up door windows and the convertible top swing up b-pillars is so tight. Tight to the point that stainless channel for the weather strip that mounts to pillar can't install without making contact with the window frame. There is no additional adjustment in the top mechanism. It's as far back as it can go.




I think it has to do with the position of the door window glass and possible the door window was either cut too large, of the setting tape they used is too thick. To confirm that I need the following measurements:

The space at top front of the glass, between the stainless edges.




And at the back bottom corner the gap between the stainless edge and the inside edge of the door window slot.




This will confirm if the door glass is sitting too far rearward and causing the issue I am seeing. Both these measurements are with the door window top dead even with the top of the vent window.

Thanks!

On my car, the driver side stainless window frame touches the vent glass pillar at the upper left corner with the window all the way up. The gap at the lower right corner between the glass frame and the body slot is about 7/16". The fit of the windows is almost exactly the same on both the driver and passenger side. The front of the vent window frame comes very close to the windshield frame on both sides. The glass frames come very close to the B pillars also. The door to cowl gap is no more than 1/8" and the door to body gap at the rear of the door is a little closer. Both are fairly even top to bottom, maybe a fraction closer at the top. This car has probably settled a little on the body mount pads, which are original. Doors open and close nicely, and the windows go up and down easily. The front vertical track for each window glass looks to be a stainless channel with the cat whisker stuff inside. The glass projects out of the stainless frame at the front about 3/16". The rear glass run has a couple of thin liners that look like rubberized cloth. It looks from here like your glass needs to be moved forward so that there is no gap between the stainless window frame and the back of the vent window frame with the window all the way up.

BigKev,
Do you still have the cup washers available? And what screws did you end up using for the Door trim? #6 x 3/4 slotted oval? or the #8 with #6 head?
Quote:

I believe I used the #6 x 3/4 oval slotted. But if the holes in the door have been stripped out, then you may need the #8 with the #6 head.

I can check to see how many cup washers I still have left. How many do you need?

I wonder if the issue I am seeing with the door windows being too close to the swing-up b-pillars has to do with the front window glass channel I used. Perhaps it is too thick and/or not fully seated in the metal channel. What size or part number did anyone else use for this?

I believe the part I used was Restoration Specialties Y526, which is 5/8 wide by 9/16 tall, flexible, and rubber-covered. Perhaps if I used a rigid channel type, it would sit down lower in the channel. Or maybe the size I was using was just wrong to start with.

I'm having the same problem on my passenger side. The driver side fits nicely. What I did on the driver side which helped and what I attempted to do on the passenger side which did help some but not enough, unfortunately, Was I moved the whole vent window forward towards the windshield pillars just enough to not scrape at the top and drilled new mounting holes in the door where it screws down. This allowed me to be able to position the side window closer towards the front of the car. As you can see in the pictures. It's as close as you can get to the vent window as well. The very top of the vent window frame in relation to where the stainless strip that screws onto the windshield pillar that holds the weatherstrip has a tight gap. There is originally a small indent in the stainless strip up top which allowed the vent frame to not scrape. I also hammered that indent down just a bit to avoid the scraping and being able to get that gap close. This allowed me to move the position of the side window closer towards the front, which I was hoping would create enough space so that piece that screws onto the wooden piece that goes on the convertible rack, and not scrape the side window frame. It worked on the driver's side but not enough on the passenger. I unfortunately had the top material installed before I mocked everything up to for test windows and the such, so I couldn't adjust the rack much. I may end up sanding the wooden piece down ever so slightly so that metal piece that holds the weatherstrip will sit slightly further back. I just need about 1/8". I hope I explained it clearly. If not I'm a phone call away, just DM me of you want to give me a call and I'll pass along my number.

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Also from what I see. That gap between the door window and vent window is quite significant as you can see compared to my pictures as well. If your side window is rubbing inside that felt channel then you may need to sand that window down some, unless you need to push it into the frame rubber so it bottoms out.

Thanks, that's very helpful!

I need to pull the window out and see if the glass extends past the metal guide loop on bottom. If it does, then I know the glass is either too wide, or not sitting deep enough in it's frame. Then I can have the glass ground down on that leading edge.

If it's even with the loop, then I think the issue is the channel I used.

But being able to shift the vent windows forward some will for sure help.