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I am interested in opinions on what should be a next step with the Easamatic power brakes on my 1954 Clipper. While I await the return of my newly refurbished gas tank and the first chance to start the car I have been going over every square inch. There appears to be adequate fluid in the master cylinder but when I opened the fill cap on the Easamatic not only was there no fluid, what was in there was a congealed and somewhat dirty grease-like substance. All of that was below the small opening with the protruding spring/washer. After many Q-tips and rags I've got it clean. I need to cut a new gasket and then put it all together and fill with fluid. Am I wasting my time and with the fluid having been neglected this far is it likely the unit is shot? Or should I try it anyway. The unit had been rebuilt at one time as evidenced by a rebuild sticker on it but that was probably 20+ years ago.

Once I get the car going I will do further brake work, fluid change and so forth. The front brakes, hoses and wheel cylinders have been replaced in the last few years. I have a rebuilt master cylinder I was planning to have installed. Car has 60,400 miles on it with less than 1,000 in the last 30 years.

Thanks,
Steve

Don't even think about rebuilding it yourself, there are too many parts that are needed that aren't included in kits. I recommend you sent it to Ed Strain in Pinellas Park, Florida. He advertises regularly in most hobby publications, let us know if you can't find the contact information. Cost will be about $230.

Also you might want to search "BTV" or Bendix TreadleVac, you'll probably find 10,000 other posts on that unit which some folks find controversial, though it was used w/o apparent problems on 20 or 30 million cars in the 50s, though there are a few individuals who have had bad experiences.

This is a duplicate of my recent postin the "Treadlevac???" topic:

ABS Power Brakes in Orange, CA has an underfloor dual MC that can be used in conjunction with a remote mount electric booster. The dual MC is only 3-1/2 in high, so it will fit under the floor of a 51-56 Packard. The booster can be mounted anywhere, even under the dash.

See page 10 in the online catalog:http://www.abspowerbrake.com/maincatalog_frameset.html

The problem is that the electric booster is pricey (>$1100), but not as pricey as major injury or death. You could also go hydroboost and use the power steering pump.

Craig

Steve -

That kind of stuff in the reservoir makes me wonder what's downstream - not only in the bore and pipes, but the wheel cylinders themselves. Personally, I'd wanna go through the entire hydraulic section from stem to stern.

If the hydraulic plunger isn't pitted and the compensator port valve spring shows no signs of corrosion and you have some mechanical skill, you could replace seals and gaskets in the master cylinder yourself (following the shop manual). However, know that the available reproduction rebuild kits do not include any pieces for the vacuum section (other than what is required to remove the master cylinder from the vacuum shell).

Now, if the booster operation is questionable, forget rebuilding the M/C yourself and send the whole thing off to a reputable TreadleVac specialist. DO NOT send it to someone who merely has experience rebuilding and even sleeving conventional master and wheel cylinders; the TreadleVac is in a class all its own. (BTW, the TreadleVac master cylinder does not require nor should it ever be sleeved.)

If the steel brake tubing is in good condition, you might be able to chase it with some wire and flush it with some alcohol, through a syringe. I'd replace the two front and one rear rubber hoses just to be on the safe side.

If the wheel cylinder bores aren't pitted, you can install new seals, but complete wheel cylinders should be available through finer parts stores as they were used on other vehicles, including trucks.

I would absolutely at a minimum have things inspected and seals changed. Better yet, even though low use, have it gone thru professionally.

That little opening with the protruding spring & washer is the compensator valve--the only thing between brakes or no brakes when pedal is pushed. Aside from the little spring possibly being a culprit, it has been one of my theories the sudden brake failure people have experienced could be the result of garbage floating to the valve area and lodging thus preventing a good seal. No seal, and the fluid goes right back to the reservoir instead of the wheels when brakes applied.

The fact you found garbage below valve in the cylinder itself is disturbing. Quantity being unknown and the conditions causing the junk and prolonged sitting could have also pitted or roughened the piston shaft so seals could possibly leak as well when vacuum applied.

Thank you everyone for the excellent advice and explanations. I sure don't want to take any chances so it looks like the whole Easamatic assembly has to be removed and sent off for a rebuild or replaced.

This low mileage car is turning into quite a project. Monday I discovered I have to redo the fuel lines too. They're so rusted on the outside and a peak inside is only slightly better. Then some bozo who hooked the line up from the mechanical pump to the electric fuel pump kinked and virtually flattened the fuel line in one place.

With the great help of this website I'll get her going!

---Steve