Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Garrett,
No, it doesn't matter. Just pick an easy spot on the shaft somewhere. If your battery voltage dropped that much then you either have a battery problem, cable/connection problem or a short in the starter drawing high current. Did you try and bypass the solenoid and go directly to the motor stud?
Jason
Advanced Electrical Rebuilders
www.aerrebuild.com

Hey Jason,
Yeah, I tried the test you mentioned and I saw no arcing, nor heard sparking. I used a little jumper wire to go across each slot on the commutator with no signs of a short. What could it be!?!?! I also tried bypassing the solenoid with no luck. Not a sound came from the starter when I attempted that.

-Garrett

If I missed the answer to my question I'm sorry to belabor the point.

What is the final outcome of "battery condition" and specific gravity?.....
As I have posted previously, (IMHO)I'm one to go as far as I can go then take the starter to a business and have them check the starter with the proper equipment. They'll get enough information to inform you if the starter is good or bad. Get it fixed and reuse it. Thereby starting from a known good starting point. (pun intended).

Good luck.

Hey packardguy53,
I took the battery to get it checked a while back. The test showed it was a good battery. The only thing was it needed to be charged for a little while. The cold cranking amps were down a bit; but I wasn't able to get the reading on the specific gravity. If nothing else I'll go to an auto parts store and try bench test on a battery I know is good.

-Garrett

Dear Gearrat:

It sounds like you want to try to fix the thing if possible and so lets go through a few garage style methods:

a) Go to Radio-Shack, Wal-mart, the hardware store or whatever and buy a cheap multi-meter.

b) Take the brushes out.

c) Now check the fields for short to ground (case) and for continuity between the brush side and the post side.

d) Next set the multi-meter to DC voltage and connect the leads to the post side and the brush side of the field circuit. Next while holding a screwdriver near the pole shoe momentarily apply battery voltage to the field leads.
The screwdriver should reflect strong magnetism and you should see a voltage show up on the meter. If you get nothing but battery voltage on the meter, the fields are open. If you get nothing but low voltage the fields are shorted to voltage. Either case will require some professional help.

e) Next, take the multi-meter and test the armature circuits for continuity and shorts. You should find continuity between opposing bars on the armature. Next test for continuity between adjacent bars. If you find that you have some then the armature is shorted.

f) next are the brushes. Test the brush plate for shorts and also replace the brushes if they are worn. Once I handled a Packard Twin Six where the problem was a loose wire in the brush. I fixed it with metallic epoxy.

g) If you want your armature professionally tested, call around to find a place that has an "armature growler". they can drop your baby in that thing and test it for shorts.

h) Finally, put the unit together without brushes and test for shorts between the armature and case and also that it spins free without hitting anything.

Hope this helps and don't hesitate to contact a library for a manual on same.

Hey Tim,
Thank you for lending a helping hand. I will definitely try the tests you mentioned to me. This starter has been giving me fits. Just when I thought I might be able to get this baby started, the starter doesn't want to crank. Ehh, So is the life of having an old car.

Looking at all of what you say it sounds like the starter is dragging and locking up this could be caused by a worn bearing bushing. Looking at picture 6 the shaft shows signs of poor lubrication and possible ware.

Garrett,
Check your inbox, I just sent you a private message.
Jason
Advanced Electrical Rebuilders
www.aerrebuild.com

Good news, got the starter to turn just a little bit. Made a better ground and used some thicker gauge wire. Next step; I am going to buy new brushes and bushings to see if I can't finally get this car started!!!!!!!!!!

Just got my starter back from a local re-builder. My starter actually challenged him pretty well. The problem ended up being the bolts holding down the solenoid. They were a bit too long, and were touching the fields. This was causing negative and positive current to flow through the starter. He also put in new fields and says she is ready to go. Now it is time to finally get this show on the road!!!