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Starter won't crank
#1
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Garrett Cuellar
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Alright... I ordered a new solenoid from NAPA since one of the terminals on the old one broke off due to age. I installed it today and put my battery on trickle charge. The voltage read on the battery was about 6.36 volts. Hooked her up and all I got was a "buzzing" noise. From there I removed the starter and decided to clean and paint it, and preform a bench test. What I got were the same results; no actuating of the pinion gear and more buzzing. I have not torn into the starter yet, but has anyone had these symptoms before? If so, what did you have to do to fix it? I've never rebuilt a starter before, but i'm definitely not afraid to try if that's the only option.

here's the video of the bench testhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B4Zod0OUP-g

Posted on: 2011/12/7 18:47
Garrett

1952 200 Deluxe Touring Sedan


" If you don't go when you want to go, when you do go, you'll find you've gone"- Burt Munro
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Re: Starter won't crank
#2
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BlackBeerd
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I'll go with "The bushings are shot and grounding the armature to the stator. " For $100, Alex.

Posted on: 2011/12/7 18:59
1954 Clipper Super Touring Sedan -5462
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Re: Starter won't crank
#3
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Jim L. in OR
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Seems to be a bad day for starters.

Posted on: 2011/12/7 20:40
1951 200 Deluxe Touring Sedan
1951 200 Deluxe Touring Sedan (parts ?)
1951 Patrician Touring Sedan
1955 Patrician Touring Sedan
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Re: Starter won't crank
#4
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HH56
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In addition to possibly the grounding issue, I'd also verify the condition of the brushes and if spring tension holding the brush against commutator is sufficient or is one of the holders binding.

There is always the possibility that one cell in the battery has given up. You may be able to read voltage across it but there could be no current capacity available behind the voltage. I don't recall if you mentioned whether the starter had been OK before but also don't forget that 6v systems generally hate the modern & usually too small size battery cables if they were changed.

Posted on: 2011/12/7 21:03
Howard
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Re: Starter won't crank
#5
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Garrett Cuellar
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Due to the lack of daylight I wasn't able to completely tear into the starter. This is the first time I've ever tried to engage this starter. I assume it has sat for 40 years with out being run. The battery was purchased back in June, but has seldom been used. When I first attempted to crank the starter in the car the voltage dropped down to about 3.19 volts. Once taken out of the car it popped back up to 5.91 volts. Also, i'm not sure if the battery cables have been changed; what should the resistance be on both cables? I will update you on the status of what I find in my starter, and try to get some photos while i'm at it.

Thank you,
-Garrett

Posted on: 2011/12/7 23:45
Garrett

1952 200 Deluxe Touring Sedan


" If you don't go when you want to go, when you do go, you'll find you've gone"- Burt Munro
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Re: Starter won't crank
#6
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BlackBeerd
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The resistance will measure zero ohms or as close to zero even with the wrong cables.

If you need new cables and your local auto parts store doesnt have the heavier ones needed to carry the huge amps that a 6V stystem has, try a tractor parts supply place.

Posted on: 2011/12/8 7:06
1954 Clipper Super Touring Sedan -5462
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Re: Starter won't crank
#7
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Owen_Dyneto
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Cables for 6-volt systems and a short run should be at least 1 gauge (as were most OEM cables). O gauge would be better, and 00 if the length of run is extreme, as for some prewar seniors with the battery in the golf club compartment floor.

A 6-volt battery in good condition and state of charge should measure about 6.6 volts at rest. Best tests are load tests and measurement of the specific gravity of the electrolyte, which should be about 1.275 for a fully charged battery.

A meaningful test of a starter motor is to measure the current (amperage) draw, running free and under load. These specs can often be found in Motor's Manuals. Use a meter like the enclosed; it has a U-shaped sleeve on the back which you just place over the cable - no connections required.

Just looking at some values for postwar Packard thru 1950 (except Custom 8 which had a unique starter) for AutoLite starters (Delco units are slightly different), typical numbers are:

No load: 65-75 amps @ 5.5 volts.
Load: 410 amps @ 2.0 volts.

Most of these starters give about 8-18 ft-lbs of torque except the Custom 8 (356 engine) which provides about 45 ft-lbs. Data from Motor's Manual.

Attach file:



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Posted on: 2011/12/8 11:56
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Re: Starter won't crank
#8
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Owen_Dyneto
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Here's some data, courtesy of Motor's Manual. Perhaps someone with a newer edition can provide the data thru 1956. You might want to print this off and save hard copy.

The difference in the motor torque between AutoLite and Delco on the Twelve is interesting. Though both were no doubt adequate, the Delco is relatively puny. Of the two, I always considered AutoLite to have the edge in quality and performance, perhaps Jason would care to comment.

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Posted on: 2011/12/8 12:23
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Re: Starter won't crank
#9
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JD in KC
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Does the starter turn if you bypass the solenoid?

Posted on: 2011/12/8 17:04
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Re: Starter won't crank
#10
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David Grubbs
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I'm betting on a run down battery. Try it after you put the battery on a charger (not a trickle type) overnight. You can buy the O gauge wire at Napa as well as the presoldered lugs. Welding supply stores are another good source of the heavy wire.

Posted on: 2011/12/8 18:08
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