Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

THere is PAckard PArts X-ref Rite here at THIS P'info web site. Look at the left side of screen under Main Menue.

Here it is from that X-ref:

fuel pump
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V8
55-56
Y block Ford 292 V8
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local auto parts
Y Block 292 Ford pump fits perfectly, TurboPackMan has over 6000 miles on hise. And they're available new from the local parts stores!
PackardV8

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My thanks to you as well as O_D and Big Kev in my time of trouble. Packard V8 brings me back to a thread that was earlier on - that of a double acting Ford pump. I think if I wind up going non Packard AKA AC I just might go for a "two-fur" and get a little help for the wiper motor. Being Oregon, I have been caught out in the rain in the month or so I've had this car back and the wiper motor almost really doesn't need any help to replace the assist lacking from the mystery oil pump. But if non OEM is the easiest, why not have the vacuum to go with it.

Anyone remember what Ford Pump that was? Or perhaps easier would be what year Thunderbird it was for. At least I'm pretty sure the intended car was a Thunderbird.

I just looked at a rebuild kit for 55-6 Carter pumps from another vendor and there is no pin included - just diaphragm, valves, screens, gaskets and a stake plug. Speaks to the quality of the then and now kit since they are including one - with or without a groove.

Looking at a couple of pumps, it appears various kit mgs did different things. Here are a couple of pins removed from 55-6 pumps -- no idea whether pumps are original or rebuilds.

Notice the one pin has no groove and was just held in by the stake plug. I just removed that arm and pin today.

The other pump was already apart so can't be absolutely sure on it. Note the pin has a wide groove. Being that wide, not sure it was designed for a hairpin clip -- although there is a tiny wear spot. Didn't find any evidence of any kind of clip with the rest of the parts -- just remnants of another plug which had been well chewed up in the removal process.

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PackardV8 wrote:

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I think you're referring to Loctite 640 Sleeve Retainer, which is green in color. I know of several cases of loose-fitting transmission output shaft bushings that have been fixed with that stuff. However, as heating is required for disassembly, it may not be suitable in this case. As Loctite now offers nearly a dozen different retaining compounds, it gets confusing real fast - best to check with a knowledgable supplier for your specific application.

When recommending Loctite products, it's important to not just specify by color, but by product number.

For example, Loctite 290 Threadlocker - a special, wicking grade that penetrates assembled parts - is also green in color. Intended primarily for pre-assembled threaded fasteners (e.g. - electrical connections, set screws, etc.), it can also be used for porosity sealing. Usually disassembles with hand tools; else, heating may be required.

As if that isn't enough, I believe Loctite acquired Permatex, which makes a competing line of products, but with their own numbering system.

Returning to the subject fuel pump, I'd stick with the use of a hairpin clip - cut a groove or make new pin.

My very limited experience with double action pumps, mostly OEM AMC 1965 thru early 70's, about 5 of them is that the suction part of the pump is only good for about 25k MILES. Those pumps tend to be expensive too. Probably cheaper in long run to convert to electric wiper ALA 55-57 Chev at about $200 as of 4 or 5 years ago.

If u can find a pump such as the F Y block 292 AS AN OFF THE SHELF item at local parts store or big name hi volumn ford supplier to work then i would not jerk around any rebuild kits unless price is major diference. WHich i am guessing of-the shelf pump to be cheaper.

Give us an update when u decide.


HH56:
can u take a file to one of those pins (if a sacrificial pin is in hand) to determine it's hardness?????

BH wrote:
" Loctite 290 Threadlocker -.... it can also be used for porosity sealing"

Yes, and i have found loctite (or something that resembled loctite) to have been used on houshold AC valves to seal them. One case i KNOW to have been done by a certified,qulaified, licensed, sanctified,quantified, christened, confirmed, washed in the blood and dyed in the wool 30 year "professional" HVAC man, on his OWN MOTHERS central AC in HER own house when it was installed NEW. The valve twisted off 30 years later when service was required.

Well folks, it's been an interesting day...
The good news is that after digging around in a box of parts that came back with the car, I was able to find the original pin though not the hair-pin clip that went with it. No problem there, the shop had plenty.

The next step was the problem I was taking the car back for in the first place. Hard starting in the morning and stumbling or dying when trying to pull away from a stop. It didn't seem to make much difference whether the engine was hot or cold or somewhere in between. My guy had a hunch and played it. He suspected the accelerator pump on the carb. The reason was even though I'd rebuilt the carb before taking it to them; when they had simular problems it turned out to be the rubber parts of the pump had come apart. They got a new kit and rebuilt the carb themselves. He opened the carb up and sure enough, the rubber plunger was in two pieces. This after limited running the engine for testing purposes and almost a month of driving by me. I knew I had seen a couple of old style leather plungers that were in both the carb on the car and the parts carb I bought on 3-Bay. Drove home, got the two plungers and came back. By now it was the end of the day so they'll try it with the best of the two leather plungers tomorrow.

The bad news is that both kits came new from NAPA and both kits had nothing but "Made in USA" stamped all over them - not a "Made in China", or "Outer Mongolia" or "Dark Side of the Moon" in sight! I find that pathetic!

Does anyone know of a manufacturer of carb kits that uses materials that will at least tolerate alcohol for more than a month?

Does anyone know of a manufacturer of carb kits that uses materials that will at least tolerate alcohol for more than a month?

Get a kit from Daytona Parts down in FL. The very best kits available anywhere, I wouldn't buy a kit from anyone else. If you afford it, their rebuilds are world-class.

I've got about 10 years on mine in the 56 Carib and the pumps are as good as the day they were installed. Also, the accelerator pump plunger in my 34 has been happily pumping away for 30 or more years with no problems, it's also leather and doesn't seem to have been affected at all by today's gasoline.

Thank you O_D, that's the kind of kit I'm talking about! Sounds like Daytona could make use of the old Packard pitch.
I've asked the man who owns one (or two).

I told them to go ahead and put the best of the leather plunger in for now as I'm curious to see what it will do. One especially looks good - so good, I don't know why I didn't re-use it the first time. Live and learn!

When the time comes I will order a kit from Daytona. You're not the first person that has recommended them to me. You are, however, the most convincing.

I had my 2bbl rebuilt by daytona, and it is the best looking part on the whole car. I think they even used all new screws and brass fittings. Hope to actually have an engine to put under it soon.

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