Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

the selector rod move back and for between to spring loaded pins. those pins are held in by to concave metal cups that seem to be pressed in.

i had to remove those to get the pins unstuck from years of gunk. how would one assure himself he put them back in right. they seem to be holding, but i had, for a lack of better words, jerry rig it by pressing the metal around the concave cup with a flatblade screwdriver and a rubber mallet to push down the aluminum to hold the cup in place. seems okay, but i am worried it might come off in operation.

thought about maybe jb welding them in place or something. that stuff will hold anything to anything.

thoughts.

Hank

Not sure exactly what you did to the ball end pins & valve to free but they are actually spring loaded pistons. When car is moving they receive oil on backside to increase pressure against selector valve to help keep it from moving either due to oil pressure in valve or accidentally bumping shift lever.

call me stupid i guess, but i used a phillips screwdriver and pushed them out using the concave piece. they came out just fine. one of the concave pieces has a hold in the middle the other doesn't. the ball end valves are fine and the springs are fine. it is just the concave piece that go on the back side of those that holds them in. i am guessing the hole in the one is for oil to get in or is the hole not supposed to be there in the concave piece? there isn't really anything in the manuals about these two valves other than what they do, but not how to service them if they are stuck.

i will put some pics in soon.

here you can see what i am talking about.

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you can see all the little punch marks i made around the one that wouldn't stay in place when the spring pressure was on it. seems to be holding now. you can also see the hole in the middle of it and that the other one doesn't have that hole.

I need to look at a valve body up close to offer suggestion but have to remember & find what box or cabinet they are in before committing. Will try and find today or tomorrow as long as my machines and customers co-operate. Hopefully some of the real mechanical guys on the forum will have a suggestion before then.

Think they are staked in place as you're doing but important thing is making sure pistons move freely, bores not scratched and nothing is distorted on rest of body.

Here is a close up of the parts in question. The retainers are staked in and there is no hole!

There is a small depression on each side however, which makes a center locater for the piston spring inside. Verify that is what you have and not a hole.

One side you can see is as the factory did it, and other appears to have been worked on like yours. These were working units so if you need a few more stakes to hold things, guess not an issue. Would not use JB Weld or anything else as unknown how hot trans fluid would affect it. Just be gentle so as not to deform anything so the pistons jam again.

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well at least i am not the only one that repaired their's the same way. the hole in mine i believe may have already been there on that one cup....but most likely i did it while tapping them out. dang.....well at least i got it back together and it does work now, but i think i should try to locate a new cup without a hole in it.

jb weld, the company, may know what would happen in hot tranny fluid. i know if sounds kinda jacked up to use it, but it would fill the hole in and hold the piece at the same time ;0)...and i doubt i can just run to the autozone for this part LOL...so i may have to do what i can to make it work. thanks for the great pictures they are way better than my camera phone!

JB Weld is great stuff for some applications, but I think a better choice is to use silver solder to close the hole.

I find it interesting how round that hole appears to be--like it was placed there. Can't see that much detail but surely it would be more jagged or you'd have noticed if you had done it accidentally with the phillips.

Went back and checked but there appears to be only one end piece for both years so should be the same. Hydraulic charts also show no escape or bleed path through there. Can't imagine why it would be done on purpose though because it opens a fluid path that would have surely caused some major disruption & shift issues in transmission.

At any rate, agree with Owen about the solder--just not sure how you'd do it without removing the retainer again to thoroughly clean and solder outside the diecast. Since the melting points are so close, wouldn't even think of attempting in place.