Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Hi guys,

Currently I'm overhauling my Carter WGD 2102S carburetor from my Clipper De Luxe Sedan 1954. Reason I do this is very hard starting. The engine was completely rebuilt and the ignition is in good shape, all the adjustments are spot on, so I decided to have a go at the old Carter.
The rebuilt is coming along nicely but I'm a curious kind of guy so over the past days a few questions came up. I would like to share them with you and maybe have your opinion on them.

What I noticed when removing the carburetor was that the bowl was completely empty, no fuel. Last time I ran the car was a month ago, would this be a normal situation? I guess it is one main reason for hard starting when there is no fuel to start on.

Then there is the automatic choke. All the parts seem to be there, only the little Welch plug covering the cacuum piston bore went missing. This means that the position of the choke blade does not react on the engine vacuum, so it needs replacing. I guess a self fabricated aluminium plate will take care of the job.
Another thing is the heating of the bi-metal choke spring in the black housing cover. I know it is supposed to be heated from the manifold and the tubing is all there, but does anyone have a clue how it really works? What you would expect is two tubings to and from the manifold, one suppying fresh and the other hot air. I know there is a vacuum passage from the choke housing to the carburetor housing. My theory for the carter WGD is that the vacuum by-pass along the choke piston is enough to suck hot air from the manifold to the choke housing. But how about the fresh air supply because there is only one tubing? And how much vacuum can be generated in the choke housing considering there is an air leak around the flat rod that connects the choke mechanism to the throttle shaft for increased idle? What is your opinion and your experience guys? Do you guess the Climate Control choke will ever be functional again (and the big question: was it functional back in 1954)?

Last but not least I discovered an amount of play around the throttle shaft, too much. Then I discovered two grooves with O-rings in the shaft where it bears in the throttle body to correct the play and prevent air leakage. My guess is that this is definitely not an off factory situation as it makes it difficult for the shaft to turn freely. My guess is that someone in the past tried to cure the air leak this way. A more definitve solution would be to have the throttle body milled to accept new self lubricating bronze or even teflon bushes. The shaft itself seems to be in good condition.

Well guys, these were some observations and questions I like to share with you. In the meantime I will give all the parts a final meticulous cleaning with caburator cleaner to finish the preparations and start rebuilding.
By the way, when disassembling the carburetor I noticed how rough the outside of the casting is, not eroded but probably rough from the moment it was assembled by Carter.

Hans,

The automatic choke heat receives warm air from the manifold because of the pressure difference between the manifold and the choke spring housing (which is open to the atmosphere, or should be).

Here is a manual I found for that carburetor.

Sorry, but I can't help with your other questions.

Cheers,

Tom

In answer to some of your questions, in proper working order the Carter Climatic Control automatic choke was a good design and worked very well. Wear in the base casing at the throttle shaft bores is encountered commonly enough and the better carburetor rebuilders service it the same way you've suggested - by boring and installing bushings and if necessary a new shaft. To find a fuel bowl empty after sitting for a month is entirely normal, the bowl is vented to the atmosphere and that's more than enough time for the fuel to evaporate.

The WDG is a very good design and given a proper rebuild, I'm sure you'll be very happy with the results.

Thanks for the info Tom. The service manual is very useful. In the meantime I've rebuilt the housing and the top of the carburetor. What remains is the throttle shaft issue and the welsh plug.

Should be back on the car in a couple of days, ready for spring season.

Hans

Good to hear satisfying experiences with the WGD. So after putting it all together again I will be checking the adjustments to make sure everything is spot on.

What in your opinion would be a good method to start the engine after the fuel in the bowl has evaporated? I guess a little fuel down the venturi would help? A friend of mine has a WW 2 Ford Jeep. His fuel pump has a maual lever that helps bringing up te fuel, quite useful.

Thanks for responding!

Hans

Hans, I would recommend trying to fill the bowl before you install the carburetor. Years ago when I worked at a shop we would fill the carburetors we rebuilt with a piece of shop built equipment that included a small can of gas with an electric fuel pump, and a hose and various fittings. It worked well, but would not be acceptable shop practice today. The engines would start right up with no excessive use of the starter to pump the fuel bowl full.

(o{}o)

Hans, on your 54 the fresh air enters the exhaust manifold cast passage at the bottom of that little square box cast on the manifold. It is important that the cover plate on the manifold be present and fit.

Now on to the carb: to have the vacuum bring up the warm air to the choke thermostatic coil there are a couple of things to check: on the WGD the the choke housing casting is often a little loose on the body of the carb--be sure the 3 screws are snug. There is a sheet metal disc, that fits into a recess in the choke housing that separates the mechanism side of the housing from the thermostatic side. This helps to direct the warm air over the coil. It is often missing. Lastly, the black thermostat housing must seal to the choke housing.

I am amused that you suppossed that they never worked. How then did granma get to the store, or granpa to work in February? Anyway, if your carb is too worn I would be happy to sell you a core.

Thanks for your tips concerning the automatic choke. During assembly I'll certainly look into these points. I was happy that all choke parts are there including the metal baffle plate you mention.

When assembling the carburetor on the engine I will look into the stove on the manifold too. During dissassembly noting seemed to be missing or broken, but I'll give it the once over and correct if necessary.

One of the choke cover screws lost its threads, so it was loose. I replaced the screw by a metric one which seems to have done the trick. Furthermore the welch plug covering the vacuum piston bore wwas replaced somewhere in history by a small piece of cork glued in place with silicon sealer. The cork was hanging loose when I removed the carburetor from the engine. So that was not helping correct choke action either. I spent this sunday afternoon filing a piece of aluminium sheet into the right round form and making it convex. With success, it fits snugly in the bore. I applied a little sealant just to make sure no vacuum leak will occur.

As I go on I'm getting more and more convinced that the choke is going to do the job. Grandma and grandpa will be proud of me, because Dutch winters can be cold...

So only the rebushing of the throttle shaft remains to be done, but I will leave this to a professional.

Thanks again!

JW, thanks for your tip. I think something like that is useful each time I start up after a longer period.

I certainly will report on the first start of the car after completing the rebuild of the caburetor.
Fixing all the little problems should promise a satisfying result Iguess.

Another trick to fill the fuel bowl: loosen the plugs, disconnect the coil, and run the starter for 30 seconds or so. The fuel pump should fill the bowl, and the starter will have a very easy time turning over the engine.

Then retighten plugs, reconnect coil, and get it started.

Cheers,

Tom