Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

On a 54 Clipper with Autolite distributor, the distributor is supposed to move when you rev the engine. That is how the vacuum advance works on that type--it turns the whole distributor.

Most every 51-54 that comes in here has the floppy accelerator bracket problem. The rubber bushings have perished. Take an old shock absorber bushing or a big fat artists eraser and wedge it between the firewall and the bracket to hold the bracket out as far as it will go. Your throttle will work much better.

We'll get to adjusting your throttle linkage so the trans shifts better after I wander out to the garage and measure something.

Here's the drill so the trans is aware, so to speak, of what the engine is doing. Since you have no kickdown, the linkage adjustment is suspect.

1) Fix that bracket as mentioned.

2) make sure that the pull rod that goes to the carb is close to 13 1/4 inches long. Length is adjustable.

3) make sure with those changes that the car will snap back to a slow idle when you take your foot off the gas. Leave the linkage in the slow idle position and don't disturb it.

4) Roll under the car with a 7/16 wrench and a right angle straight blade screwdriver as you are going to adjust that lever that is right next to the governor. Make sure the lever is pointing up, not down. loosen the clamp screw on that lever till the shaft is free to turn. Turn the shaft ccw til it stops. Now rotate it a few degrees forward so it is not quite on the stop and tighten the clamp screw. Test drive it. If the upshift point seems rather low, or if you still don't have kickdown, you can rotate the shaft a bit further cw.

That is a simplified version of the Packard procedure, but it gives good results.

Ross:
Wow, thanks so much. It is unbelievable the wealth of knowledge and the willingness to share that you encompass. You must have helped many a novice Packard owner through their trials and tribulations. Thanks again, I am one it Tuesday.

Ross:

Thanks again, I drove the Clipper today after adding the rubber piece and doing the adjustment you detailed. I took my wife and 3 neighbor kids with me. The Clipper shifted fine and did not stall at any of the stop signs :) The new tires rode much better than the 20 year old Coker tires. It feel great to have the Clipper to the point I can enjoy the drive and feel of a Packard. The car really turns heads! People waited at the 4 way stops for me to cross so they could take a longer look. I was sure more than likely most of the could not tell what make or model of car they just saw.

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After driving the Clipper for a time the brakes got soft. I found a small leak and refilled the master cylinder. Now I get almost no pressure out of the bleeder fittings. The peddle will not pump up at all. I think this tells me it is a bad seal in the master cylinder. Is there any other possible problems???? They are standard brakes. All new wheel cylinders, lines, and master cylinder. The brake shoes are all good.

Pull back the rubber boot on the master cylinder - if you don't get a face full of brake fluid, the seal is OK and you very simply have a lot of air in the system and have to bleed the brakes. Sequence the bleeding starting at the wheel cylinder furthest from the master (right rear). The fact that you get no pressure at the bleed screw just shows how much air is in the system - keep bleeding. And make sure the master doesn't run low of fluid during the bleeding. You know now that during bleeding, you don't let the peddle back up until the bleeder screw is closed? Otherwise you just draw air back in.

Thanks, some things I have forgotten since the 60's. It looks okay, I tightened all the fittings again and looked for leaks. Getting ready to bleed again. It did appear that the gasket on the master cylinder was missing. I did some teflon tape to make sure it was sealed. That would explain the rust on the master cylinder housing if the lid was seeping.

I did some teflon tape to make sure it was sealed.

That may be OK as long as no tape gets inside, but remember the master should not be fully sealed; as the fluid level goes up and down with each brake application and release, air must enter and leave - so make sure the small vent hole in the cap is clear. If you want a more proper copper ring-type gasket for the cap, I got mine from Restoration Supply, they had a fairly large variety of sizes and they were intended for other purposes but for me fit well and seal the cap to the housing.

The Clipper drove fine going to and from the cruise Saturday. The Ultramatic shifted smooth and kicked down as designed. I am still getting used to the car with the old steering , cornering and handling. I think a few more trips and I will get the feel of the Clipper. The new tires made a huge difference and brakes worked fine. I will bleed them again and check to make sure there is still a vent.
Next will be to take the car on a drive of about 20 miles.

Drove the Clipper about 10 miles this evening. The brakes are working fine, the transmission shifts so smooth I can't hardly tell it shifts, the car will need shocks to help with a better ride. After two years it really feels good to get in the Packard, twist the key, car immediately starts, and to drive out of the garage and get on the rode. Next will be a 20 mile drive. I don't hear any strange noises or feel any vibrations, very happy now.
I couldn't have accomplished this without the help of many of you on the site. Thanks again!