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We can match about any pattern.
Using original art or by parts we pick up along the way. Some of the best info for patterns and colors comes from forums like this.

A few pics, Just messing around this morning.
I think you can see how I can get patterns from old parts as well by replicating the areas I can see by using special software to fill in the blanks.
Jdee

Highlander160 Great looking work as always
Jdee

GIT Kit on the way! Photos to follow.

Did you stay with the basic kit or go with the upgrade kit and larger roller? I'm also getting ready to order one and debating pros and cons of going with the upgrade kit. Larger roller for dash surface would be nice but question is will it be too big for the curves and working with the window moldings. Anyone that's used a kit care to comment?

I went with the upgrade kit as it has the bigger plate. I think I was told I'd be ok on the roller as they squish quite a bit. I'm a bit worried about roller size too, but we'll see.

As you may recall, Howard, I obsessed over the process.
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=5878&viewmode=flat&order=ASC&type=&mode=0&start=230

I have the basic kit, but I only need one pattern for my car. It looks like you have two patterns, so there's another $100, plus "inks."

The big kit is maybe overkill, however, the smaller extra roller helps to maintain pattern continuity in hard to get places, crevices, lips, that the big roller skips. But you can buy one separately.

The process is very forgiving. The base coat is permanent, but the grain is water-based. If you don't like the grain you rolled on, you can wipe it off with a damp cloth and make another pass at that segment with the roller.

If I were going into business or knew I would be doing other cars in the future, I'd get the big kit. I was unsure about my ability to do it and if it would look good enough, so I stuck with the basic kit.

Received my GIT kit today and must say that roller piece is an interesting concoction of some really strange compound. Very heavy rubberish something yet extremely soft and squiggly at the same time.

Next is to watch the videos a few times. Hopefully I'm smart enough to figure the process out and can do as decent a job on mine as others on the forum did with theirs. GIT assured me artistic abilities are not a requirement because their process is more mechanical than anything else.

Hopefully they are right because mechanics can be handled. Artistically it's another story. It's been mentioned from one whose opinion I respect that absolutely no artistic abilities were inherited.

Well, about a week or two ago, I received my kit as well. I wasn't going to remove all of the just completed job, but unfortunately it easily flakes as well. So, I've been blasting parts. I have more to go, but have filled, smoothed, and primered the glove box door and instrument cluster panel. Hopefully I can blast more today.

I also figured out why the glass was cut and the misalignment was on the rear side windows. The top pivot was bent on removal, and then not re-straightened. Also it may be, although not 100% verified, that the top pivot screw holes are not a mirror image of each other. In other words, if I flip the mount 180 degrees, I seem to get much better alignment.

More information for all of you when selecting where to get your wood graining done.

I too am not artistic, so we'll see how this plays out together.

Regards,
Rich

Hopefully all goes as planned with your dash and it turns out to be as "easy" as advertised. No damage on mine and am debating if the blasting is needed or if chemical stripping would work just as well. My dash is on hold because almost all the mechanical items I've been waiting for seem to have arrived at the same time. Unless something changes the plan, will be concentrating on that aspect for awhile.

I blasted my 39 120 dash with well worn sand, and it worked fine. Gave it a smooth finish with just enough tooth for the primer to adhere to. I put on two coats of sandable primer, then two coats of the GIT "thin as all get out" paint. I let that dry a day or so prior to doing the inking. Like they said, just wipe off the ink with a paper towel if it doesn't go just right for you. Once you're happy with the results, let it dry a minimum of three days, and wipe on a coat of the toner and wipe it back off immediately - this will heighten the color, similar to putting varnish on real wood. Just make sure that the ink is completely dry otherwise you will wipe off the ink with the toner and you will say things that your grandchildren should not hear! Then let it dry for several days again and hit it with several light coats of a clear top coat. I like the Dupli Color version in gloss. After it is dry I go over the finished product with a polishing compound, applied with a microfiber cloth by hand. This really makes the final product really look good. I have fooled a number of people into thinking that the dash is actually a high end wood product. Just be prepared to do it over several times until you are comfortable with the process. I would suggest starting with the window trim just because it is easier. Have fun!

Forgot to add - I don't like the chemical strippers since they have a bad habit of seeping out from crevices that didn't get completely cleaned and messing up a nice paint job.