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Ok. The original fuel pump is rebuilt and installed. I currently have a 6 volt electric pump installed and have a few questions about the whole hook up...

1. I would like to keep the elec pump on for a primer pump. So the question is, will the AC pump pull fuel through the elec pump or do I need to put in a bypass and valve system to accommodate the elect pump on a switch.

2. Does anyone out there have the fuel line/vacuum line diagram on hand... (Jim L.) So I can get the fuel and vacuum lines back to original configuration.

The inlet valve or connection looks to be a larger size and thread than the out side of the fuel pump. So a few connections and fuel lines are in order... advance auto and napa are getting to know me WAY to well....

any advice and coaching is welcome...

Ok... Took the 52 for a spin yesterday for about a 35 mile drive, and she started running hot. then about 5 miles later at about 60 MPH she steamed out and went into the red. Once she cooled, and a neighbor brought a 5 gallon bucket of water and a funnel I limped home.
Today the radiator got a double flush job, and flushed with the hose while it was running for about 20 min.
I have replaced the Thermostat with a 180 deg. and the cap with a 13 Lb cap. The only issue is, is that the Radiator neck is about 1/4 inch longer than the Cap is deep.

So where do you get a cap that will work, without having the radiator removed and replacing the neck with a shorter one...

There are several caps listed in the parts xref. Napa carries a long reach 7# cap under 703-1411 and I believe others have also bought a 13# at Napa. Not sure the xref number for the 13# is current but if you tell them you want a long reach cap, they should be able to help.

Did you pull the pump and check the water distribution tube? After a long sit it could be clogged or if one of the steel ones, rusted away.

Thanks for the info, I'll be at the NAPA counter tomorrow.
I haven't pulled the water pump yet. I'm hesitant to do so with out the replacement gasket in hand. I am wanting to order the complete gasket set for the whole motor and trans. and soon will.

Mark - Good advice from Howard about the radiator cap. A 7# cap would be my choice. Something else to consider: A 180F thermostat may be too high for your altitude. Water boils at lower temperatures at higher altitudes. The 180 thermostat may not be giving you enough gap between when it opens, engine reaches operating temperature, and water boiling point. Try a 160F thermostat and a 50-50 mixture of permanent type anti-freeze (green colored) along with a good radiator cap.

(o{}o)

Thanks JW,
I was able to get the cap from NAPA, and a 7# was all they had with the longer neck, so its on the car and haven't had a hot moment yet. Though today its been about 40 degrees outside. So cant really say until this weekend when the temp picks up a little.

I replaced the rusted plugs today with new ones. The old ones were AC45 plugs and the new are the 308's. The old plugs were working fine just a LOT of rust on the threads and the socket connect and im not sure they were sealing good. Im running 7mm wires and am sure they are resister wires, so am trying to find some good solid core wires out there. This resister wire seems to be making the engine run a little rough.
Any suggestions on the best wire set to put in? Outside of ordering from Hal at Classic motors im not having any luck finding any local supply.

Also My Key broke off in the trunk lid... I have another key, but half of the old one is in the lock, and she is locked closed... Any tricks out there? My next try is to send my son into the trunk thru the back seat and unbolt the lock catch... and go from there...

The Auto-Lite 308 plugs are a good match to the AC45s, I use the 308s in all in-line Packards and find them to be excellent. As to solid-core ignition wires, rather than looking for a set, why not just make them up. You can get solid core wire easily enough (try the local motorcycle places) and NAPA has the ends to crimp on. Or if Cole Ignition is still around, you can get a premade set from them.

As to the trunk, if your son can't fit in thru the back seat, there is another way. Let us know how you make on that.

If you use solid core wires, put a resistance wire between the coil and distributor cap for radio suppression. Or add a capacitor on the coil.

By taking out the back seat, it is possible to reach all the way through to the lock and unbolt it, if you have a socket wrench with enough extensions. And if there isn't too much junk in the road.

Thanks Rusty... I want to try the Solid core wire and see how well she runs, and to see the difference from the new core wires on there now. The radio isn't working at the moment... Im not sure if its the speaker, or the whole radio. all that's working on it is the light in the dial... looks good at night... so the resister wont be necessary right now...

As for the trunk... ... my extensions are about 6-8 inches too short...tried that about three hours ago, and 20 deg. warmer outside. So tomorrow my son will be put to work crawling thru the back seat, between the support "X" to get it open, and then the issue of getting the half of a key out of the lock.... that should be interesting...