Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

I have posted this question before and I believe someone had a diagram or pictures on a kill switch for the motors that move the seat horizontal and vertical on the 1955 caribbena.
The problem is that I have noticed that on my assembly it was somewhat bent and also needed a little welding due to some cracks.
Can anyone post that diagram or picture for the best way to handle this problem
Thanks, Walter

Walt,

Could you post a picture of the area that was bent, and welded? I would like to know, so I can look over my seats.

I don't remember the discussion you are talking about, but I remember I think HH discussing the 56 seats not going back all the way.

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=10493&forum=3&post_id=110642#forumpost110642

I don't remember if anyone else has done a limit switch and lost the original photos of the entire limit switch construction and assy that I did. The above link is the only photos left of my installation.

My reason was not a cracked mount -- although it does flex -- but rather the motor kept jamming the tube into the casting so it was getting stuck -- finally once too often. My switch is at the forward end or controlling the full back motion and is activated when the tube hits the switch. The limit switch could be added at either direction or at both if your issue is different. Just a matter of picking a location and fabricating a mount so switch can be tripped by something that moves -- or stops moving. You do have to use caution in the mount and geometry to ensure the switch lever doesn't move far enough to get trapped or damaged by whatever activates it when you move in the reverse direction.

Fortunately the way Packard reversible motors operate, electrrically it is just a matter of adding a microswitch in the lead which drives the motor in the direction that needs stopping. This one used the normally closed contact since something "hits" the switch to open it. If you have a different arrangement such as the switch sliding along the tube and "falling off" then you would need to use the normally open contact. You will need a switch capable of carrying the motor current. I believe the one I used was capable of 20 amps.