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Happened to just change the cap (contact points) on my R-9 overdrive governor, and noticed the weights when manually pulled apart are just a bit sluggish on returning to neutral. I have not taken one apart, and really don't want to. Might I just squirt a bit of brake parts cleaner at the base? It just feels like there is a bit of goop when I go to push them back together with my fingers. Also there are two machine screws at the top of each weight, with a loop and arm for some sort of adjustments? Might be for cut in speed change?
Just in case one day, are there any spare parts for these?
Thanks

Well, I would say you are safe cleaning the governor with brake cleaner, but realize you'll be getting it down into the shaft and bushing as well. So, make sure try to get it out once it does its job, then follow up with a small amount of light oil, letting it get down into the bushing & shaft.

I there is intended to be a bit of hysteresis in the weights coming back to center, but only due to centrifugal force when the thing is turning; not so if you are just moving the weights with your fingers.

I've worked on several R9 and R11 overdrives, but not familiar with the screws you are referring to on the Bendix types. Autolite and other companies also made governors, and perhaps those fit Packard as well. Perhaps they created a version different than those I've worked on.

As such, I came up with a different way to change the engagement speed on both the Bendix (Packard) and Autolite types (used on Hudson), bringing it up to around 30mph. I posted the method for the Bendix the forums somewhere, if you are interested.

Pat

Thanks.

Over the years have changed governor caps a few times. I know they are available from Max Merritt. But has anyone tried to burnish the points on these? I have tried in the past and you need about four very small fingers, and a lot of luck putting the spring parts back together. Then when done burnishing, only intermittently worked, so bought a new cap. When these are gone? And I have saved all the used caps, now have around four, that could have the contacts burnished? Any ideas on the proper way to burnish these?
Thanks again.

Any ideas on the proper way to burnish these?

Have you tried just an ordinary point burnishing tool? They are widely available and have been discussed here before. If you're unfamiliar them you might try the search function.

amazon.com/GC-Electronics-Burnishing-Exc ... n/dp/B005GBJ900/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_2

I have several burnishing files. Tried them, but only get intermittent results. Would put the governor back in, sometimes would go into overdrive, sometimes not. Put on a new cap all is good for a couple years. Then when the overdrive starts to work intermittently get a new cap. All is well again. I guess no one is having to change these out ever. Perhaps not filing enough, need to be a bit more aggressive. When there are no more available caps someone will come up with a way to replace the points. I hope.

I notice there is a slight oil film on one old cover of mine. Probably because of the location and lack of real ventilation in the OD, hot oil just emits vapors which rise up thru the governor and have to deposit somewhere.

Wonder how much that could be affecting the operation. You mentioned the gummed up flyweights. If an oil film is coating the contacts, burnishing would not do much good since the remaining film and any additional would just recoat in a short time.

Have you tried a good quality plastic safe contact cleaner made for cleaning relay contacts in combination with the burnishing? If not maybe worth a shot the next time you need to clean one to see if the thing would work a bit longer.

Have not tried, but a good thought. I have many old jukeboxes and use contact cleaner as a last resort. They have more relays and contacts than you care to know about. But in this case seems to be a last resort. If you should ever need to take out the one screw inside the cap to remove the contact springs, you will see that it is very difficult to get them aligned, and hooking just right again. I am sure these caps are finite, and good answers are going to help many a collector in the future.
What are the two adjustment? screws on top of the weights for? Perhaps I can purchase a good used R-9 governor and take it apart with pictures for us, and post.

What are the two adjustment? screws on top of the weights for?

I don't see any screws on these Bendix made governors I have unless you need to take the weights out to see them. Not 100 percent sure they are for an R9 though -- maybe a later R11. All I see on these are two pins going thru the weights holding them to their mounting bars. Without knowing exactly where screws are located I can't speculate as to purpose.

The only screw I remember reading about used for speed adjust is the one under the tar in that raised portion of cover. That affects the contact trip point rather than the weights directly. I forget what direction or how much Packard specifically said to do with it to change the speed range. Their primary suggestion was not touch it unless absolutely necessary and a new governor wouldn't make the customer happy.