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Hello again,
I am looking for some guidance on breaking down the engine from the #1 Packard 6 previously discussed. I was able to get all 12 valve springs and valves out of the block, so the cam shaft and tappets spin freely. A couple of the valve guides broke upon removal of the valves. No big deal I said, I could hit or drill them out. I am having some trouble doing that, since the metal seams are hard to discern and I really don't have a good understanding of what this style of guide looks like anyway. Does anyone have a trick to this? Which way are they supposed to be driven out, top or bottom? Have I already made a mistake drilling them out to 1/2" (which I did)? Does the cam slide out from the front or back? Any lessons from experience would be very helpful. Thank you!

For the valve guides, get a valve guide driver, drive them halfway down and then snap them off with a chisel. Then you can finish driving them out. The cam comes out the front of the block - you have to remove the timing chain cover, the timing chain and the cam retainer. If you look at my blog, there are many more details.

Unfortunate that you began drilling the guides, it will leave less "meat" for the driver to bear on when pounding them down and out. Probably best now that you make a modified driver with a pilot to match the new bore diameter. The more or less standard "K-D" driver pictured(2nd from left, with broken pilot) along with some others I've used over the years. The "step" on the driver has to be large enough to get a full contact on the edge of the guide yet obviously small enough to fit thru the guide bore as you drive it downwards. You'll want a heavy hammer, perhaps about 4#.

I've done far more valve jobs on Packard in-line engines than I care to recount; if you've not been through it before I suggest you try to find someone who has to guide you thru the process.

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This is great, thank you. I wasn't sure how many different type of guide drivers there were, but the KD815 you speak of seems to be very universal. I will try to do the eBay route on this. I didn't drill all of the valves, so it might just work. 4# hammer here, ready to go.
I removed the timing gear, key piece and thick washer and have about a half-inch of play on the cam laterally. But it won't pull out. I hear a metallic "tink" when I get it so far to the front. Could there be something else in the block holding it? Thanks again.

You will need to pull out the oil pump and also make sure the lifters are up and out of the way of the cam.

I found a valve driver on amazon.com. They work well, just make sure you hit straight down, or you will break the tool. Pro-tip - put some blocks of wood down over the valve seats to protect them!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CP6M6G?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Thanks for all the tips. My antique eBay valve driver is doing the trick so far, even on a broken one! I heard that new guides are tricky to install because if hit too hard they can squeeze in like an hourglass and become impassible. That might be a step I leave to a professional same as the block cleaning and resurfacing, assuming the project takes me to that point.

The upper engine suffered the worst from years of exposure. Does anyone know if this casting has separate valve seats that should be forced out, or am I only looking at the rusted rim of the cast block?

Never had a problem installing Egge or Kanter new guides, I just drove them in with the same driver I used to remove the old ones. But I do pack them in the freezer (or better yet, dry ice) for a time to make installation easier. Hopefully you've carefully measured the depth to which the old guides were installed before you removed them and compared the old and new guides as there was a running change during 1938 for the 115 guides. By all means see the information in the shop manual - there is about a 1/4" difference in the depth to which the revised guides are seated, and they are shorter.

No Packard did not use hardened valve seat inserts, though it's possible they were installed in your car at some point in the past.

Great tips, thank you. The antique valve driver from eBay is working great. I only have three more guides to go, and I will take my measurements off these before they come out. The cam slipped out easily the day after I wrote about it. Must have been a lobe that was hitting in just the right spot. I still thought of a couple questions if anyone has time for some basic teaching this week: What is the definition of valve lash? Are all feeler gauge values talked about relative to the tappet and valve interface? I presume the hex nut on the tappet is the only place to adjust a valve to whatever you need. And why do some of my tappets have oil ports and some are solid (I kept them in order 1 thru 12)?

The challenge for this winter will be removing the numerous head studs that are very frozen in the block. They are so rusty I am afraid I will twist them in half before they ever back out, even after oiling and heating.

"Valve lash" is equivalent to tappet clearance, the distance between the tip of the valve stem and the top of the tappet when the when the cam has not yet initiated lift of the tappet.