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Has anyone found a place that has the fuel lines. I found a place that has the brake lines. I see that there is a rubber flex line from the pump to the fuel line, is it steel all the way back???? my fuel lines have been butchered with a aftermarket electric fuel pump and new style filter. i would like to go through the fuel system from the tank to the engine and make it original. Any suggestions on the process and stuff to watch for would be appreciated

You can buy straight tubing at Napa or buy longer rolls. The tubing is the same as brake line, just larger diameter and the newer stuff is coated to make it more corrosion resistant. A tubing cutter and a flaring tool is all that is needed to make your own lines.

To answer your question, yes - the original fuel line was steel for it's entire length. For a replacement, you'll find the modern cupro-nickel alloy fuel line much easier to work with than steel - highly recommended.

Are the runs pretty straight ???? I have been searching for routes etc but can not seem to find anything.

To answer your question, yes - the original fuel line was steel for it's entire length. For a replacement, you'll find the modern cupro-nickel alloy fuel line much easier to work with than steel - highly recommended.



Is it one line? no unions or joints?

It is one continuous length. You can get a general idea of the routing here:

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/partslist/viewplate.php?cat=31&partslist=1948-1954&PlateNumber=103A

The original line, being steel, was hard to bend so was undoubtedly preformed and installed on the Left outer frame rail before the body and suspension parts were attached. Replacing it, I suspect you will find it somewhat difficult to lay in a new one piece fuel line in the front where it has intricate bends to thread thru under the L upper A arm and also go across the front crossmemeber under the radiator. It also needs to thread in above and, I believe below, some of the frame outriggers so with the body on that too will be difficult.

Using the more easily bent cupronickel product, it is not as bad but will still require some patience. You can start at the rear end and pull the tubing through most of the route before running into too much difficulty. Being easily bent it will be able to conform to the needed shapes although the final result may not look as pretty as the factory line. Use of a few shorter length commercially available steel pieces would help the situation. The tubing could be purchased in appropriate lengths, bent as needed and arranged so the couplings could be mostly hidden.

The rubber hose between the line and fuel pump is readily available in reproduction. One thing to check is the transition fitting at the end of the hard line where the hose connects below the radiator. If it is a plain inverted flare fitting on the tubing then easy but if it has the older soldered on fitting then that needs to be removed from the old line and transferred to the new.

Wow thanks Howard.....i have a lot of time on my hands i think i will try and use the soft line and get it bent up and use it as a template. Then take it out and use it to bend the all steel in one run if possible (might have to have 1 joint) If it works maybe ill do 2 and use one for the car and one as a template for anyone's future use if they want.

Hi Howard, Transition fitting. I've always wondered about that and how it was connected to the steel line.
Thanks!
Wes

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I don't know when they stopped using the transition fitting and just went to a flare on the tube end which mated directly to the hose.. Looking at the year selection of repro rubber hoses might give some idea since the fitting changed on the hoses. It may have originally been brazed to the steel line but was able to use a torch to get mine off, cleaned the socket and then silver soldered it back onto the Cupro-Nickel tubing.