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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
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CarFreak
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Quote:

HH56 wrote:
Just be aware there are different size ceramic elements and I don't believe the one commonly sold in most parts stores for Chevys etc will work in the smaller diameter filter unit Packard used in some years. I think the difference may be AC and Carter brand filters. Someone posted recently they saw a vendor for a small element on ebay. I think it was for a Carter filter but won't swear to that.


I saw that and ordered one. It should be here Friday. I did take your suggestion and soaked the filter in brake cleaner. Surprisingly enough, it was 62 when I woke up this morning and should be holding that temperature all day, so I took the packard. I was able to do a couple hard 2 and 3 gear pulls and so far it is not having that bucking issue!! so I am glad all it was is a dirty fuel filter, so thank you!!

Posted on: 2023/11/7 11:34
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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
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CarFreak
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I have over 450 miles I put on this thing and its running great. A couple issues have crept up... I tried putting on a different steering wheel and I couldnt get the horn to work (it did before). So I was fiddling around with the contacts in the column and I thought I got it to work right. Well I drove it the following day and as I was pulling out of a parking lot I lose power, the radio cuts and it feels like its coasting. Then the radio come backs on and power is back and I continue driving. While this was happening I was hearing some type of electrical noise in the steering column and it started to smoke. It stopped a couple seconds later and everything was fine but the horn didnt work... I figured something shorted or somehow that wire got power to it (it is a ground wire up through the column). Need to look into that. I dont know if this is connected but I also found out my power windows, seat and locks no longer work (need to check the circuit breaker and wires).

I was working on the a/c system and I may have leaned on the connections on the horn relay that allowed contact between the horn relay feed and the horn signal wire? again need to look into that.

BUT! I was able to get the a/c compressor and condenser mounted. I used the york to sanden mount and milled another slot into it and mounted it to the original compressor's mounting bracket. I used a SD7H15 Sanden compressor. I used an 11-1621 condenser and the associated mounting brackets which just reached the mount holes on the radiator support. There are mounting points all along the edge of the condenser so it makes it fairly easy to mount. I did need to make spacers that were about 1.125" long to keep the condenser away from the cross bar in front of the radiator.

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Posted on: 2023/11/16 17:12
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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
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humanpotatohybrid
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Quote:

CarFreak wrote:
Well I drove it the following day and as I was pulling out of a parking lot I lose power, the radio cuts and it feels like its coasting. Then the radio come backs on and power is back and I continue driving. While this was happening I was hearing some type of electrical noise in the steering column and it started to smoke. It stopped a couple seconds later and everything was fine but the horn didnt work... I figured something shorted or somehow that wire got power to it (it is a ground wire up through the column). Need to look into that. I dont know if this is connected but I also found out my power windows, seat and locks no longer work (need to check the circuit breaker and wires).

I was working on the a/c system and I may have leaned on the connections on the horn relay that allowed contact between the horn relay feed and the horn signal wire? again need to look into that.


Yes, I believe what must have happened your horn relay Bat and Switch terminals were shorted. Then either the horn was pressed accidentally, or there was some other short in the horn switch area, which would cause a direct short to ground. Normally a short to ground at the horn switch would just cause the horn to sound (much to the annoyance of classic car owners whom this happens to accidentally); the wire in the column provides power and it is grounded by the switch during normal operation. This by itself would never cause an overcurrent condition as the current is limited by the impedance of the horn relay coil.

Probably horn wire is toast and the contacts need inspected/cleaned. I know a guy with a whole steering column for sale for like 20 bucks up by Mifflinburg. Unfortunately it's still attached to the car.

If you inspect the wiring harness by the starter probably you will find that the battery wire or connections to the horn relay are also shot. Either the PS, PW CB was spliced into the same horn wire, or it is connected close enough to be likewise damaged by the heat from the shorting horn wire.

Also regarding the original horn problem: see here for the repair to this, page 4. I'm not sure the spacer dimensions but it shouldn't be difficult to figure out proportionally if you can measure the width or depth of the original hardware.https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/SC/SC-VOL29NO8.pdf

P.S. On the fuel issue, there is also a screen in the fuel pump. If you have the original pump and not cleaned out the tank (I don't remember if you did), the screen would be worth checking sometime preventatively I think.

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Posted on: 2023/11/17 5:07
'55 400. Needs aesthetic parts put back on, and electrical system sorted.
'55 Clipper Deluxe. Engine is stuck-ish.
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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
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CarFreak
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Quote:

humanpotatohybrid wrote:
Quote:

CarFreak wrote:
Well I drove it the following day and as I was pulling out of a parking lot I lose power, the radio cuts and it feels like its coasting. Then the radio come backs on and power is back and I continue driving. While this was happening I was hearing some type of electrical noise in the steering column and it started to smoke. It stopped a couple seconds later and everything was fine but the horn didnt work... I figured something shorted or somehow that wire got power to it (it is a ground wire up through the column). Need to look into that. I dont know if this is connected but I also found out my power windows, seat and locks no longer work (need to check the circuit breaker and wires).

I was working on the a/c system and I may have leaned on the connections on the horn relay that allowed contact between the horn relay feed and the horn signal wire? again need to look into that.


Yes, I believe what must have happened your horn relay Bat and Switch terminals were shorted. Then either the horn was pressed accidentally, or there was some other short in the horn switch area, which would cause a direct short to ground. Normally a short to ground at the horn switch would just cause the horn to sound (much to the annoyance of classic car owners whom this happens to accidentally); the wire in the column provides power and it is grounded by the switch during normal operation. This by itself would never cause an overcurrent condition as the current is limited by the impedance of the horn relay coil.

Probably horn wire is toast and the contacts need inspected/cleaned. I know a guy with a whole steering column for sale for like 20 bucks up by Mifflinburg. Unfortunately it's still attached to the car.

If you inspect the wiring harness by the starter probably you will find that the battery wire or connections to the horn relay are also shot. Either the PS, PW CB was spliced into the same horn wire, or it is connected close enough to be likewise damaged by the heat from the shorting horn wire.

Also regarding the original horn problem: see here for the repair to this, page 4. I'm not sure the spacer dimensions but it shouldn't be difficult to figure out proportionally if you can measure the width or depth of the original hardware.https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/SC/SC-VOL29NO8.pdf

P.S. On the fuel issue, there is also a screen in the fuel pump. If you have the original pump and not cleaned out the tank (I don't remember if you did), the screen would be worth checking sometime preventatively I think.


I do not have the original fuel pump. I went with a 55-57 Ford T bird fuel pump (as suggested by Ross). This fuel pump was rebuilt. Went with this pump as it has a vacuum pumped attached to it to replace the vacuum pump that was originally attached to the oil pump (Im running the olds pump conversion). But the fuel lines are new as is the tank, so it definitely shouldnt be a clogging issue.

thank you for that link on the horn! ill give that a go when I get around to fixing the horn.

I did find the issue with the horn PW/PS/PL. It appears that some how the feed wire for the PW/PS/PL got caught on the column and wrapped around it until it split and shorted on the column. That short is what caused the smoke coming out of the steering wheel the other day. So the electronics and wiring for the PW/PS/PL should be okay I just need to remove the wheel and inspect the damage in the column wiring. I do know that the turn signals still work as they should, so thankfully that section didnt fry.

Speaking on the turn signals, column and wheel. My steering wheel is about 90 degrees off from center. To correct an un centered steering wheel the FSM states to just adjust the tire rod ends until the wheel is centered. Ill have to confirm that the steering gear is properly centered (equal turns to the right and left) but does the output shaft of the steering gear have clocking marks 90 degrees apart? It does it only have one? meaning the pitman arm can be clocked in 90 degree increments on the steering gear.

Posted on: 2023/11/17 10:17
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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
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CarFreak
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The car has been successfully transported from Pittsburgh back to my folks place in Lancaster. While it is sitting there over the winter I hope to try and finish up the last tid bits: a/c, alignment, headliner, last mechanical stuff etc.

To start that off I got the rear axle shafts removed and had Ross press on new wheel bearings. I just heard that was done so when they come back I will be able to install new axle seals and yoke seal. When removing the yoke nut, would I have to replace the nut with a new one? I know other rear ends I worked on said the nuts are a one time use item.

In effort to get the a/c done, Howard, what brand of thermostat did you use when you did your a/c conversion? and where did you mount the filter/drier? Do you have any pictures showing the a/c line routing? I have the condenser and compressor in and the filter/drier is the last component before I start figuring out how to route the lines. Howard, did you run any hard lines on the condenser to eliminate having rubber hoses go past the radiator support?

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Posted on: 2023/11/29 16:30
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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
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humanpotatohybrid
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I assume you have aftermarket A/C? If so, what make/model?

I have a Vintage Air system on my car that was professionally installed. Would be happy to send some pics if it would help. Or come take a look when you are back in town.

Posted on: 2023/11/29 16:37
'55 400. Needs aesthetic parts put back on, and electrical system sorted.
'55 Clipper Deluxe. Engine is stuck-ish.
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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
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HH56
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I mostly duplicated the original factory layout with both hoses and hard lines to look as close to the original as I could with the modern fittings and components. Hoses I made to fit but there is one run of metal tubing along the vent tube in the engine compt and a couple of lengths inside the evaporator box because of the modern evaporator core. Instead of copper tubing, I used stock aluminum lengths with rubber O ring fittings ordered from Vintage Air.

Receiver/drier is under the radiator splasher where the orignal was located but is in a different style can so made a different bracket for correct positioning. The different configuration also required a change in how the tubing was laid out. Also added a binary over/under pressure switch to protect the compressor which the originals did not have.

Thermostat is a cable operated unit that I mounted outside on the end of the evaporator box. Apparently I did not take any detail photos showing it mounted since the one I could find only shows a tiny bit of it. It is connected to the temp lever by a short Bowden cable. Made a small grommeted opening to run the sensing tube inside to the evaporator core. I had to make a second mounting stud and clamp position for the extra cable to attach to the stock temp lever and housing. Temp lever still works as original for the heater as nothing there was changed. Moving lever down still provides more heat. The AC thermostat mounts on another area of the lever and works just the opposite. Full cold when lever is up and off when it is down.

I don't remember the model number of the switch but bought it from Nostalgic Air. They only show one cable type now so it was either that one or the one I used was discontinued. If it is not the same one all I can say is you may need to look at several vendors and examine the specs or work with the positioning and cable mounting to the lever so it will work the way I wanted mine to work. I wanted to be able to use the stock temp lever and have everything work opposite to the heater.

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Posted on: 2023/11/29 17:35
Howard
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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
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R H
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Freak.

The nuts that retain axle.. ask Ross.

But I reuse them.

Posted on: 11/30 1:39
Riki
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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
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CarFreak
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A little late in the response but I looked a little further into the rear end of the patrician. I did confirm it has the twin traction (removed the rear cover for inspection) and confirmed it has the 3.54 rear end ratio. So not to bad. I got the axle shafts in and torqued, however the air compressor is down at the moment so I wasnt able to fill the tires back up and didnt have the gasket on hand to install the rear cover. Hopefully those parts will be there when I get back this coming weekend.

next step is to work on the a/c I have a general idea where I am going to mount the drier. I also created a spread sheet with all the connections and what hose goes where, all I need is to take the measurements, find the ends I need on cold hose and get custom hoses made! pretty pumped about that.

then I just need to mount the thermostat, somehow wire everything, fix the horn, an alignment and I would say that about covers the winter work that needs completed!

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Posted on: 12/26 17:02
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Re: Vacation Car - 56 Patrician
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CarFreak
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Got a little more time to work on the patrician over the holidays. I got the rear axle cover seal installed, and the pinion seal installed as well. The rear tires are on it and its back on the ground awaiting fluid. I inspected the fuel filter again and there was still a good amount of rust looking sediment in the bottom of the glass bowl. The only thing I can think of is the rebuilt ford fuel pump since everything else is new (put in another new fuel tank). I may get a mopar pump and keep in the trunk just in case. but just in case I installed a new ceramic filter (was a little too tall) so we will see if that causes a leak, and I put another inline fuel filter just after the pump.

I installed the refurbished kick panels, and I measured everything up for the a/c hoses. I will try and get them on order since they are finally back from the holidays. I also took some time on the horn. I installed some washers behind the horn ring and I am able to get the horn to consistently blow by pressing the center of the wheel, pushing the rim does not work. Not to sure if I want to install longer spacers or not. I also used the headlight polish stuff on the center horn button. Looks pretty darn snazzy! I will try it again before I install it.

Posted on: 1/3 11:16
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