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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
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All the toe plates were pierced for a clutch pedal. In Ultra cars a piece of that black insulation was glued over it. Just put a couple of layers of Noico over it and call it a day.

Posted on: 2020/11/15 6:43
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
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Looks great!

Posted on: 2020/11/15 7:01
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation.

http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... p?topic_id=16514&forum=10

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
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Paul and Ken - Thanks! It's not some thing that anyone will see, but I figured if I was going to apply this stuff, I might as well do it right. Next is going to be a layer of the thin bubble insulation for heat control (I don't think the Noico mats make a huge difference with heat), then carpet goes back in.

Ross - Thanks, that's good to know. I'll go ahead and cover it up!

-Kevin

Posted on: 2020/11/15 10:50
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
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It looks very nice and coming right along! Probably a lot more work than you bargained for but it will be a nice and attractive Packard in the end.

As for the clutch hole in the floorboard plate, it was quite possible to have power brakes with manual transmission so rather than making two different plates, a single power brake plate was made which could be used either way. My 1952 Henney-Packard had power brakes with manual overdrive transmission and I have seen others that way too.

Posted on: 2020/11/15 11:22
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
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Well, it looks like I'll probably be stuck home for two weeks. Exposure to COVID and likely symptoms. So I'll make use of the time and get as much done on the Panama as possible. Thankfully a shipment of parts from Max Merritt came in.

First up is getting the new fuel pump installed. I got the remaining missing pieces (flexible fuel line, new hard line from pump to carb, mounting spacers and washers, gasket) and proceeded to install. The fiber spacers were too long (see pic) so I had to cut them down. I used a very thin layer of gasket sealer for extra leak security on both sides of the gasket.

The flex fuel line is from Dwight Heinmuller, and I know it's not totally correct. I contacted Niagara Packards regarding theirs, but they wanted me to send a check. I was in more of a hurry so opted to grab one from Dwight because I could pay online and have it shipped immediately.

Check the install, and especially the hard fuel line location from the fuel tank. Does this look right to you? Everything was wrong on the fuel pump when I got the car, so I'm wanting to be sure I'm putting it back together right.

Also going to install a new heat riser spring, which looks nothing like the old one.

Lastly, I got a new battery ground strap. The old one was attached to one of the mounting bolts for the oil filter bracket. I haven't seen any pictures to say this is right, and no pictures I've seen show the actual mounting location for the strap. Where am I supposed to attach it?

-Kevin

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Posted on: 2020/11/17 13:50
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
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Another day of being stuck at home. Got the fuel pump installed as well as a reproduction heat shield from Max Merritt. Also bent up a fuel line to the carb. NAPA only had plastic/rubber coated lines, so it's black. I believe original was silver, but at least this won't corrode. Still need to make vacuum lines.....what diameter are the metal lines and associated rubber? I will need to order them in since I'm stuck at home.

Currently working on a few odds and ends. The fuel and temp gauges have never worked. After all the work I've done today they still do not work. Here's what I've done:

-Checked voltage from instrument voltage regulator....bounces around but is around 5 volts (I believe this is how it works. An average of 5 volts, right?)
-Pulled both the gauges and noted bent indicators. Straightened out
-Cleaned out gauges with compressed air.
-Grounded the wires from the sending units. Indicator did not immediately move. They did eventually, but not smooth at all, and not fast at all.
-Dropped fuel tank (again), pulled new sender and confirmed it works (resistance readings were as expected)
-Cleaned off around sender mount to be sure that it was bare metal. Really hard to tell if it's metal or not because it's the same color as the paint.
-Reinstalled tank and confirmed everything hooked up, including added ground wire from tank flange.

Still no dice. It's getting rather annoying. Should I just get new gauges?

Speaking of gauges, I want to install a mechanical oil pressure gauge under the dash to make sure my oil pressure is good. I don't trust the idiot light. What have you guys used and how did you hook it up? Ideally I'd like to keep both the original idiot light and have an actual gauge.

-Kevin

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Posted on: 2020/11/18 14:29
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
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You might temporarily try a ground wire on the fuel sender itself by stripping insulation off the wire end and placing the copper directly on the sender flange letting the retaining ring press it against the sender when tightened. That should eliminate any possibility of paint causing a problem. If that settles the gauge down then either clean paint more thoroughly or figure a more permanent connection to the fuel sender. Perhaps a small hole directly in the sender flange with a sheetmetal screw holding a wire having a crimped on ring terminal.

You are correct in that the output of the instrument regulator is pulsing to give an average output of 5v. The pulsing is the main reason ordinary voltmeters will usually not provide an accurate reading. Basically the device is a bimetal strip with a heating coil wrapped around it. The way the heater is in the circuit means the regulator does need to be grounded so make sure that is happening. Current flows thru the gauges and regulator causing the heater to make the bimetal open a contact. When voltage and current flow to the gauges stop the heater cools and contact closes to repeat the cycle. Rate or frequency of the contact action depends on the total amount of current flow required by the instruments and sender resistances.

On the mechanical oil pressure gauge, obviously the easiest solution would be to add a 1/8 NPT tee and close nipples to the sender tee on the bottom port and take the output from there. A much neater solution would be to use one of the rear plugs along the main longitudinal gallery that runs the length of the block on the passenger side just above the oil pump. There is a 1/8 plug which can be removed that is positioned at every main bearing location. Remove a plug and use the needed fittings to plumb the gauge in that port. Hide the excess tubing at the rear of the engine.

Note: The plugs must have had some sort of thread sealant at the factory because sometimes they can be a bit hard to remove. If you do use a passenger side port, because of the proximity of the exhaust pipe and manifold I would also suggest buying one of the optional copper tubing kits to plumb the gauge rather than use the nylon tubing that comes with some gauges.

Here is the output of a 12v instrument regulator. 6v works the same way but with half as much voltage the waveforms are usually longer and less frequent.

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Posted on: 2020/11/18 15:22
Howard
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
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Thanks Howard. I really don't want to drop the tank again, but it looks like I might have to. I should have just attached a ground wire to the sender while I had it off. Oh well.

Good know about the oil passages on the passenger side of the engine as well. I wondered what those plugs were for over there.

I ended up getting a cheap oil pressure gauge from the local parts store. After I cleaned off the layers of caked on grease, I was able to see how the oil pressure sender was currently connected. Looks like someone in the past had already put on a tee fitting, and plugged the bottom. I removed the plug on the bottom and attached the gauge there. Theoretically I should be able to still have the idiot light as well as see an actual reading.

Also figured out that the correct filter for my Fram filter assembly is the Fram C-4. It fits much better than the smaller Napa 1080, which would be correct for the factory oil filter canister.

Fresh oil, filter, ethanol free gas, charged battery, went to start the car and didn't work. Cranks, but obviously no gas is getting pumped. Even after quite a bit of cranking. Float bowl is bone dry and no signs of gas anywhere. So what did I do wrong?


-Kevin

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Posted on: 2020/11/18 19:02
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
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When you drop the tank again maybe consider cutting the access hole in the trunk floor and making a cover for it. Sure saves a lot of time and aggravation when messing with fuel senders and if you have a trunk mat it will cover the hole and most often no one is the wiser any mod was done. http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... id=227773#forumpost227773

You may not have done anything wrong. Sometimes it does take a lot of cranking to bring fuel up thru the lines and is one of the reasons many of us have electric pumps installed near the tanks that we can switch on and off. Great for situations such as filling the lines and priming the carb if the car sits for a long time. Also good for pressurizing the line on the suction side of the pump where many have speculated the vapor lock problems really occur. The low pressure fuel on the suction side allows the volatile gasses so prevalent in todays fuel to expand and escape creating a large air bubble that does not want to pull thru the pump.

There is one thing you might check on the new pump. It is possible something happened to the pump and it is not working but it would also be good to check the port arrangement. There have been reports some of the rebuilt pumps have the lower casting mounted 180 degrees off putting the suction side where the output side would normally be on some model Packards. If you just installed the pump without verifying its ports or operation that could be the issue. If you find the reversed casting it requires the pump to come off the engine and the screws removed so the bottom casting can be oriented properly.

Posted on: 2020/11/18 20:05
Howard
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
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It appears that it is at least off by 90 degrees as the outlet should face forward. Here is a photo of the pump from my 1954 Patrician blog and yours should be the same, yet I see one of the fittings aiming forward the outside of the car. You'll definitely have to take it off again to see what's amiss!

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Posted on: 2020/11/18 20:14
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