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I've been piddling with the clutch adjustment on my car since I got it in late August, still haven't hit anywhere near the sweet spot I know these cars can have because I've driven several that were a joy to drive.

Has the long nut adjuster on the clevis with the little locking nut, and I've tried adjusting all over the place but the pedal is just too soft and not getting enough resistence. The clutch pedal has to be on the toe plate (practically) to be able to shift the car anywhere near smoothly.

What am I doing wrong that isn't giving me a stiffer clutch pedal? Of course, it's lots of fun doing this by yourself, would be better if I could have somebody in there playing with the pedal while I'm fighting with that long crazy nut!

Thanks much!

I'll try to put this in an easy way to understand. FORGET THE PEDAL. At least for now, as it seems somewhere there's some slop or a missing return spring maybe. The goal should be to set the arm to where it is just removed from the face of the throwout bearing. Set that clutch arm where you can "read" about 1/8th max travel before it hits the throwout. Should feel a little play AT THE ARM. I've found that the best way when solo is to block the pedal up some how and keep it out of the way. Once you know where that arm has to be, set the adjuster so it hits there. After that the pedal is what it is. Too much you'll burn out the bearing, too little will require too much at the pedal. It's also quite possible you're not accounting for the lack of full syncro in the trans when you say will not shift. If you mean it grinds the gears then it's a syncromesh (or lack of) issue. Not 100% raise my rt hand sure that 29s were syncromesh which means the art of double clutching is required.

No, you've got to double clutch it, and I'm accustomed to double clutching, but even at that, I'm too often getting a little gear grinding, and as stated, you've gotta' have the pedal on the toe plate or very close to it before you dare move that shifter.

You need to pull up the floor boards. There is a clutch action inspection cover on the transmission.

There should be little finger bolts that are adjustable. If they are screwed in too far that will inhibit release. If it doesn't have them then that is a problem because the fingers are, thus, wrong.

You can use feeler gauges to equalize the bolts. As well, if the fork is wrong that is a problem. If the parts are correct and don't appear damaged then the linings are too thick, or the pressure plate has a problem. In either case the unit will need to be sent to a place like Fort Wayne Brake and Clutch.

It's not too bad a project because that is the easiest clutch in the world to remove, and if it's a standard 8, it should be a one disc unit unlike the Custom 8. I wonder if some knucklehead tried to put a modern clutch or the wrong clutch in it?

I remember I worked on a very early 32 Twin Six that had a prototype dash panel that required a Startix. The car was sold and went through the auction circus. Later I saw pictures of it at one of those "expert" dealers and some idiot drilled a hole in the prototype dash panel and put a button through it. So there is no telling what some idiot might have done to your car.