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What about a simple pipe wrap like the type used on hot water pipes, or cold water pipes that are prone to freezing? I took a screen shot of something that you cam likely get at the hardware store.
Bob J.

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  Pipe wrap.jpg (141.61 KB)

Added the insulated sleeve, even doubled it up….unfortunately, no change to the issue.




On top of that, I seem to have another coolant leak, but I can’t see where it’s coming from. I don’t believe it is coming from the water pump, Previously, there was no doubt that I had a leak around the shaft. That seems to be good now that I re-packed it, but I can’t find the new leak. Looks like I’ll need to get the radiator to someone for repair.

Re: coolant eak: Try tightening the water pump packing nut about 1/2 turn. Also look for leaks around water pump bolt heads. A radiator core leak will usually cause liquid to accumulate in the air passages in the core. Sometimes, when the engine is started, the fan draft will cause some accumulated coolant to be pulled into the fan and spread around. I'd look real carefully at the water pump and radiator chose connections before condemning the radiator. Be sure the overflow pipe isn't leaking where it exits the top radiator tank.
Your fuel problem is puzzling. The tiniest air leak between the fuel pump and the fuel tank can mimic vapor lock. Any fuel supply issue usually gets worse at higher temperatures.

Only left to is go around with a laser temp gun and try to figure out where it the hottest.

I'd temp check the pump as well as if that is getting heat soaked the volume of left fuel in the pump could expand and push fuel out the line.

Do you have the phenolic inserts on the fuel pump bolts?

It is puzzling.

TxGoat - I have tightened the packing nut about a 1/2 turn. I do not see any sign of coolant leaking around the shaft or around the packing nut or pulley. I do need replace the lower hose as others have mentioned and have the pipe to do that, now. I do have a very small known leak in the radiator, but I must have a leak somewhere else as well. I’ll keep looking. I did find a radiator shop near by that looks very promising. I’ll give them a call on Monday.




BigKev - I’m not sure about phenolic inserts on the fuel pump bolts. The pump was just rebuilt by Terrell Machine.

Regarding my fuel issue…I know my heat riser is out of commission….rusted/stuck and no counter weight. Based on what others have said, I’m pretty confident that it must be in the open position. But, I don’t know how to verify that?

Can someone tell me how I can verify?

Next question….

If I were to remove the radiator to get it to a shop, how does it come out? I know the front clip can come off as one assembly, but I don’t have the space or hoist to do that?

Also, If I go that route, then it opens the door give some attention to other items that I don’t know if they were tended to back in 2004. Such as, timing chain, timing pan seals, center steering bearing etc… The front motor mount was just replaced by Allen.

Any thoughts on this approach?

There are bolts at the top and sides, and the large pivot bolt at the bottom. Obviously the firewall rods are in the way as is the hood.

If it was possible to get all the bolts out and remove the large nut underneath the front cross member, then you'd have to tilt the radiator in and up to get that bottom bolt to clear the cradle.

I'd image the fan and waterpump would be in the way.


Otherwise, you'd have to do what I did. Remove hood, remove bumper and supports. Remove Headlights, remove fenders, remove nuts from the firewall wall rods. Remove lower pivot bolt nut, remove all hoses. Take off the grille surround. Then you can pull the core support, and radiator out as an assemble. Lay it down on a blanket and remove the bolts that holds it to the core support and also that bottom pivot bolt.

Reverse the process to install. I should have many of the pictures in my blog.

Thanks, Kev

Sounds like what I was thinking…a lot of disassembly. If I’m to attempt this, it’s going to take some time for me to work up the nerve!

I would exactly mark the washer location of the center pivot bolt on the bottom side of the front cross member to aid in getting it back in the same position which will help with front end sheet metal alignment if your aligned is currently good between the fenders, hood, firewall and grill shell.

Also, if you could how many turns it took to remove the nut, that would help to get it back to the same "squish" on the rubber mount there.