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Crating/Palletizing an engine
#1
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humanpotatohybrid
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Hi all,

I’m planning on picking up an engine by trailer in about a week. Clearly I’ll want to strap it to a pallet then strap the pallet to the trailer.

Anything specific to do for the engine? Just set it on the oil pan, or support it some other way?

Likewise for an Ultramatic, get it right side up, or does it even matter?

Planning on draining the fluids from both before transport.

Posted on: 2023/10/7 6:48
'55 400. Needs aesthetic parts put back on, and electrical system sorted.
'55 Clipper Deluxe. Engine is stuck-ish.
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Re: Crating/Palletizing an engine
#2
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Wat_Tyler
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I haven't hauled a V8, but I have done a few inlines. I just set them on their pans gently. If you'd like a bit of cushion, then an old tire or two should do the trick. I went from KY to NY to pick up my first 359, and we set it on its pan on a tire and then exed the chains across the head. It rode like a champ. Same with the last 327 I picked up. Transmissions are easier. I use ratchet straps on those.


Check your chains-n-straps when you stop. They might need another click or two.


I haven't had any mishaps this way.

Posted on: 2023/10/7 8:54
If you're not having fun, maybe it's your own damned fault.
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Re: Crating/Palletizing an engine
#3
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TxGoat
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2X4s attached to the pallet alongside the pan on inline motors can support and stabilize the engine. Place the 2X4s against the sides of the pan so that the pan bolts rest on top of them. The pan is very close to the oil screen on these engines and the oil drain outlet is vulnerable if the pan is sitting on a hard flat surface. Any damage to the pan is best avoided.

Posted on: 2023/10/7 9:49
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Re: Crating/Palletizing an engine
#4
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Jack Vines
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Depends upon whether it's a core or a rebuilt engine.

With a core, the easiest way is to pull the carb, distributor and rocker covers and lay it upside down on the pallet. strap it tight.

If it's a rebuilt, we build a frame of 2x10s around the oil pan, set the engine in that and then strap to the pallet.

jack vines 

Posted on: 2023/10/7 11:04
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Re: Crating/Palletizing an engine
#5
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Bob J
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I built a simple box out of 3/4" MDF the same dimensions as the base of the block and tall enough that the oil pump pick-up cleared the floor, making the one end at the rear wider for a bit more stabilizing. No fasteners to the block directly with the box, just set it on and ran a couple of straps up to bolt to the side studs on one side and engine mount boss on the other.
Made for quick and easy removal at the engine shop and then re-attachment for the trip back home.
The trip was about an hour each way over paved roads, added a stabilizer strap to keep everything firm during transport. No issues either trip. Stayed nice and quiet.
I lifted mine up and down with a shop hoist at both shop and home so I just left a chain bolted to the top of the block. It would also be fine to have cut-outs in the box or 2x4 pads on the bottom to allow tines of a fork lift access.
Bob J.

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Posted on: 2023/10/7 14:17
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Re: Crating/Palletizing an engine
#6
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humanpotatohybrid
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Thanks everyone for the great advice. I have a ton of ratchet straps so I'll obviously be using those. Not sure if anyone I know has chain tensioners small enough for an engine. I'll bring some extra wood and a Sawzall to custom make a bit of an engine stand on site so it doesn't sit right on the oil pan.

Posted on: 2023/10/8 10:20
'55 400. Needs aesthetic parts put back on, and electrical system sorted.
'55 Clipper Deluxe. Engine is stuck-ish.
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Re: Crating/Palletizing an engine
#7
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humanpotatohybrid
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Fortunately Bob got it on its own little stand before I got there. I ended up palletizing and strapping it down thus. Note that the stand is screwed to the pallet with about eight #10×3½" wood screws.

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jpg  Screenshot_20231015_204555.jpg (456.84 KB)
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Posted on: 2023/10/15 19:47
'55 400. Needs aesthetic parts put back on, and electrical system sorted.
'55 Clipper Deluxe. Engine is stuck-ish.
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