Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Good news, you have the easiest fix ever: just set the brake when you park, and your problem is fixed. 😃👍

Seriously though, that's what I'd do.

For the carb, I assume the old one was too small? Perhaps the new one is sticking. I don't know if this is "good" advice, but if you set the linkage high the plunger will rise above the gap that is between the pump and the float chamber and that might refill the pump.

My carb also has the ball stuck but I never had problems with it when driving. But the linkage was set high like this which might have avoided the problem.

Exactly what I was thinking, adjusting that linkage. That's the next test.

I am not to sure if you mentioned where you set your initial timing? If this bog is happening only between 700-1000 rpms and no where else, it could be the accelerator pump, or it could be the transfer slot, which is the fuel circuit that is active right off of the idle fuel circuit. I was informed that these cars should be set at 10 btdc, and if you have more than that there could be an issue of closing the throttle blades to keep the idle rpm within spec, which would close more of the transfer slot allowing less fuel than needed during off idle response.

So your shifting is ok

Then I suspect the pawl. That might be worn.

Where the roller goes.

That little thing is some type of metal..

Those holes wear.
.
So the roller hangs down.. or cocks.

Edit.

Picture. This is steel my dad made..

But this it the pawl. That locks gear.

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Carb Bog -

I had tried adjusting the timing prior to fixing the AP with no differences. It is much better after the AP fix, but still present. Adjusting the linkage seems to be tuning most of the hesitation out of that 700-1000 rpm range bog. I feel the car needs to be driven as much as possible, so that's what I'm doing. If I find something definitive, I'll let you all know. For now, it seems to be a carb tuning issue overall.


Parking Lock Sticking -

The parking pawl still sticks if I don't use the E-brake. When I serviced the internal trans shifter rod (re-tapping the screw etc), the pawl looked fine, but I could not see the gear condition. I think this will be an item to sort out when I pull the trans at some point to freshen it up.


Brake Lights Etc -

Now, on to the brake lights and turn signals. So far, headlights (and brights) and tail lights all work. I am only getting right rear brake light activation and right rear turn signal. Bulbs are all good, so there must be a wiring issue (or maybe indicator connection problem in the steering column?).
I'm guessing the brake light switch is fine since the TL is working correctly.
If this is anything like my 64 Impala, it had the same issue and was related to steering column wiring at signals.
The dash lights are inop as well. Might be the light switch (or bulbs), but I need to find the motivation to get into that thing soon.


Gauges -

Temp gauge and oil pressure gauge tested out fine but don't really read much different when operating. I will install new ones tomorrow. Fuel level doesn't read, so I ordered a new fuel sending unit as well which I'll put in this week.


TL -

Kanter hooked me up with a compensator control box cover since I didn't have one. Now that the system is working great, I want to have this buttoned up and weather proof. I will make connectors for ease of removing the cover if needed and ensure it is completely waterproof.


Shocks -

I installed new shocks on all 4 corners..... That was a two day fight to the death, but is done! I had to cut 3 of the 4 out. Then modify the rear shock eyelets to fit (after several trips to the auto parts store for wrong sizes etc).


Thermostat Housing -

This seems to leak around the bolt holes for some reason. The gasket was properly installed, and surfaces prepped. I will remove this and find out what the issue is. It does not leak enough to make a difference, but enough to make spots on the fresh paint in the area...


Overall, this car is really nice to daily drive! Once the paint and interior is done, I'm sure my dad will enjoy it!

Corrosion and rusty ground connections to the tail light and parking light housings are a well known issue and could be the cause of your turn signal/brake lite issue. If the socket has been subject to moisture the phenolic support holding the wire end contacts that touch those on the bottom of the bulb can warp and bend downward due to the spring pressure. That can let a contact fail to connect to the bulb contact. If you still have the original thermal type flasher those require the proper amount of resistance in the circuit to work properly. A bad connection or burned out bulb and turn signals fail to work on that side.

Have not heard of the 55-6 turn signal switch being too much of a problem but like the earlier switch, I suppose it can have a dirty contact. Not sure what is inside holding the contacts in position or whether the support can warp like the phenolic board used on the earlier switches but if it uses the same material then a warped contact board is a possibility. Both brake lights do run thru the turn signal switch but I agree that if one side is working, the stop light switch is not likely the issue.

Here is an extraction showing the turn signal circuit. The switch position photo is of the earlier switch so not applicable to yours but the 55-6 switch will make the same electrical connections inside. Since the 55-6 switch is configured to move more or less in a straight up and down motion instead of a rotary motion the squarish illustrations depicting a straight slide switch may be more in line with what is there. If half of your round plug at the steering column is the rubber type those contacts have also been known to oxidize or have a contact be pushed or pulled out of position.

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Very likely the dash lights problem is the headlight switch. Even nicely kept cars, it will corrode over time.

Tutorial video:
https://youtu.be/WCrITzIRfvk?si=KcMEQtE7QNDmssLu

Brake Lights/Indicators -

Still no resolution. All connections/contacts and bulbs are good but left side brake and signal are inop. I'll have to line check each wire to locate where the issue is. I notice when the right signal is on, the LEFT dash light flashes. Right dash light does not ever light up even though that does work on rear. Both front signal lights are inop.



Carb -

After more digging into the 4GC, no issues found internally. All items are working as they should be but there is still hesitation off idle. I will check all vacuum sources for integrity. If no issues, Edelbrock it is.



Gauges-

Replaced the temp and oil sensors. Now I can see real data! Next up is the fuel sending unit this week.

Speedometer is not working either. I removed the cable from gauge and trans. I believe there is a break in the line somewhere. Will deal with that at some point.

Needle pointer on steering column was broken for shift indicator. I'm trying to locate or fabricate a fix for that.



Thermostat Housing Gasket -

I replaced this with a new one. When I removed the housing, the old gasket dissentigrated. Maybe it was a bad batch of material? It had only been on the engine a coulple months since the rebuild. Seems to be fine now.



Power Steering Ram -

This is leaking now. I'll order the seal kit and fix this up as well. Not sure if it's Monroe or Bendix. Gotta look into it.



Speed Test -

Drove the car up to 80MPH and maintained speed. All is good, tracks great and straight line braking is dialed.

It really sounds like a grounding or bad turn signal switch issue. Because of oxidation issues in and around the pot metal the front parking light housings have been somewhat problematic. The socket is crimped to the housing and sometimes the pot metal between the housing and socket corrodes and connection deteriorates to the point that several have had to fasten a dedicated ground wire directly to the bulb socket and run that separately to a known good ground point on the sheetmetal. The switch could have one or more contacts dirty or if the phenolic support board is warped, not making contact.

Verify the indicator bulbs are in the correct sockets if the wrong one is lighting but the way the bulbs are powered and wired together the issue could also be in the switch if a contact is not being made. Packard used a flasher with a separate but single output to power one side of both indicator bulbs simultaneously. To have the correct direction bulb light the bulbs do have a unique grounding route so only one bulb can be on at a time. This is done by having the indicator bulb's other wire connected to and grounded thru the front outside bulb on the opposite side of the side flashing. An indicator bulb for the flashing side is able to light by being connected in series to find a ground thru the unenergized opposite front bulb filament. The bulb not wanted to flash stays dark because with the system in operation it is seeing the same voltage on both wires at the same time. This is controlled by the turn signal switch being able to isolate and completely disconnect one front side or the other.

All lights are now operable! Even the dash lights work and dim.

Lots of corrosion cleaned up on the front parking lamp housings. Exposed all metal for proper grounding and applied dialectric grease to everything for maximum contact and protection.

I was still having an issue with the left rear brake light/signal and traced that down to the bulb contact not being rotated correctly which obviously won't let the proper filament do its thing.

Moving on to sealing up the Bendix power steering apparatus.

Still doing daily road tests!

On the hunt for a painter and interior shop to actually take this thing on up here in Norcal. Everyone seems scared of this beauty for some reason.....