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On a 51 there is only one turn signal indicator light in the speedometer housing. It blinks for both left and right turn indications.

The 51-53 junior tailights don't ground real well 'cause of the way they are clamped in. If you solder a wire to the outside of the bulb-holder and fasten the other end of the wire down to the body with a terminal and a sheet-metal screw you will have nice bright tail lights.

Pic of nut to be tightened for future reference.

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My 51 also had the "floppy lever" problem, so I purchased a new old stock one and installed it last winter. Two problems - it doesn't self cancel, and the right hand front light won't come on, while the other three lights do. I need to do some wiring chasing, but does anyone have any suggestions based on painful experience?

A bad ground is a frequent problem on those or burned out bulb is a possibility. Some replacement bulbs are made with pins just different enough they can fit in the socket but index improperly with the contacts so one other thing to look at.

If those are good, then the lamp is fed directly from the switch as shown here in the extracted diagramhttps://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/wirediagrams/Turn%20Signal%20Extraction.pdf It is possible the new switch is warped and has a bad connection with the contact slide or the pin at the plug is not making good contact.

Some wheels have a pin on bottom of steering wheel which has to catch a little spring loaded hook or cam on the switch to cancel. If the wheel was reinstalled too high or shroud has slipped down so they don't connect, that can cause a cancel problem on those type switches. I don't remember if the 51 has that pin or not.

I do not think the 51's self cancel. I do not recall mine doing it anyway. I did not notice any pin assemblies on the wheel when I took the switch out. It just came out after loosening the 4 screws and slipped right back in place.

I believe all postwars cancel but with different ways. Some use the pin, others have a collar with a slot on the side to catch the switch cams & there may be another means as well. It all gets fuzzy and I have no photos of 48 & later switches or wheels to refresh the few active brain cells left.

Can't see the top side of the switch you posted but think there might be a spring loaded pivoting piece with a hook or more separate pieces at each end.

Here is a 47 wheel and switch using pins. On this version, in normal operation, it is as shown. When the lever is moved, it moves one of the triangular pieces out into the path of the pins. Turning the wheel in direction of signal and the pins pass the triangular pieces at the inner side of "V". The piece can pivot and slide out of the way to allow pins to pass. Turning wheel the other way to complete turn causes the pin to catch the triangular piece on the back flat side. Because it can't pivot the other direction, pin won't pass so the whole lever assy triangular pieces are attached to is moved or pivoted back at the center releasing the switch latch. Spring brings switch back to neutral position. All the switches work in a similar fashion but the details of cams and how the wheel catches the switch can differ considerably.

If the wheel and switch don't line up height wise, that can be one reason of no cancelling. If the pins fall out, that's another. If it uses a collar with slots and that has slipped is another. Also the usual possibility of broken or bent parts in the switch.

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I do not think the 51's self cancel

Yes, they had the auto-cancelling feature.

Here are pics from my project blog showing the top of the switch. It looks like the same kind that you posted. Must use pins. I don't recall mine ever cancelling but it has been a LONG time since I drove it and hardly used the turn signal because only the right one was working.

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Here's a pic of my wheel. Pins confirmed. Looks like I have something else to fix now LOL!

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