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Intake manifold crack in heat riser
#1
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Tobs
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He who looks for trouble finds it....Started cleaning up the in and exhaust manifolds for clean, derust and paint...and found a crack in the intake manifold on the engine side of the heat riser(hot box) whatever you want to call it. The flap had been working, and the spring I had replaced a while back, so the door was working, but it looked like there was years of sedimentary rock built up in that cavity that either froze, or expanded from heat and broke the manifold....
So, getting a 25 pound manifold over here isn't going to be too cheap. What are my other choices? Fill the cavity with something and block off the heat riser in the warmed up position? Install a thin plate between the intake and exhaust manifolds? If the car takes a few minutes more to warm up, well then that's how it's gonna be.... Can I block off jst half, and still keep the warming function to the half that is still whole?
Thanks 'packies'

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Posted on: 2010/8/30 15:58
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Re: Intake manifold crack in heat riser
#2
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BigKev
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If you can someone there that can weld cast iron, then they may be able to fix it.

Posted on: 2010/8/30 16:01
-BigKev


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Re: Intake manifold crack in heat riser
#3
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Eric Boyle
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What size engine do you have? I have several straight eight intakes and you can have one if you want to pay the shipping to get it over there.

Posted on: 2010/8/30 16:16
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Re: Intake manifold crack in heat riser
#4
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Tobs
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Thanks a lot for the offer Turbo! I have a 327 CID 5 Main, I'll ask my friend Kurt since he is a professional welder what he thinks about welding it...and look at usps prices. (Manifold weights 10 kilo, 22 pounds or so...

Posted on: 2010/8/30 16:26
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Re: Intake manifold crack in heat riser
#5
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Eric Boyle
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I may have one, depending on the year, '50 and back are a little different than '51 and up.

Posted on: 2010/8/30 16:39
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Re: Intake manifold crack in heat riser
#6
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Owen_Dyneto
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The damage (erosion and cracks) looks like what results from a lot of driving with valve stuck open. If you do find someone to weld it, then assemble the manifolds as a unit and have the faces surfaced-ground where they mount to the block. This is good practice in any case but even more so now as the welding may induce some additional warping.

Posted on: 2010/8/30 17:27
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Re: Intake manifold crack in heat riser
#7
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Charles
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Some people swear by JB Weld products. It's an epoxy type putty that is supposed to dry as hard as steel. I haven't tried them personally, but maybe worth a shot.

Posted on: 2010/8/30 18:41
[url=h
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Re: Intake manifold crack in heat riser
#8
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BigKev
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I wonder if JB weld would hold up to the exhaust heat?

Posted on: 2010/8/30 21:00
-BigKev


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Re: Intake manifold crack in heat riser
#9
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Charles
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I tried to check their website but the bandwidth has been exceeded?

Anyway...I don't know how hot the heat riser gets, but Wikipedia says "The product J-B WELD[1] is a two-part epoxy adhesive (or filler) that can withstand high-temperature environments. J-B WELD can be used to bond surfaces made from metal, porcelain, wood, ceramic, or glass,[4] plus marble, PVC & ABS, concrete, fiberglass, wood, fabric, or paper.[5] Avoid using alcohol to clean surfaces.[6] J-B WELD is water-proof, petroleum/chemical-resistant (when dry), acid-resistant, plus resists shock, vibration, and extreme temperature fluctuations.[5] J-B WELD can withstand a constant temperature of 260 degrees C (500 degrees F), and the maximum temperature threshold is approximately 315 degrees C (600 degrees F) for 10 minutes.[6] J-B WELD can also be used inside a microwave oven, exposed to microwave radiation instead of infrared radiation (heat).[4]"

Supposedly people have fixed cracked heads with it, but who knows if it is true or not.

If it is hotter than that...how about this? Thermosteel

Posted on: 2010/8/30 21:33
[url=h
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Re: Intake manifold crack in heat riser
#10
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WilliamCraig
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FWIW, I used JB weld on a cracked lawn mower head and it held for the two summers I used the mower before retiring it for a better mower.

Posted on: 2010/8/30 21:39
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