Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Quote:

Hotrod, I hope to help you with the TL, just a few questions...
If both 7.5a and 30a fuses are goo..how is the solenoid buss bar getting power and how are the stop lights working? Did they power up after you applied the jumper wire? Where did you get the power from?

ALSO...BEWARE of applying power directly to the solenoids as this bypasses the systems limit switches! I learned the hard way and had a hell of a time straightening my mess up!

O-D. Please see hotrod's post on sizes, that's what I was replying to

NO sealant is needed when installing shaft seals, install it with the open side towards the inside of the trans.

Do NOT apply power to the small terminals on top of the TL solenoids. Do NOT apply power to the red or yellow wires. You are bypassing the limit switches and can destroy the gear reduction and bend the links that go to the auxiliary bars.
The solenoid buss bar SHOULD have power if the fuses are good.
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Check under the car. Does the short link on the drivers side still go in FRONT of the TL motor/gearbox??? If not, you have already gone too far and may be in danger of ruining the TL links and gear reduction. If the short link is still in front of the motor/gearbox GOOD.
Now, take your time and read the instructions for your vehicle, whether 55 or 56. Although similar, there are differences. Trying things without understanding exactly what is happening can damage your system. Follow the procedure to check out the electrical portion.

Bob, according to the T/L suspension wiring diagram, power is coming from the starter motor/solenoid. Red wire through a 30 amp fuse and a Pink wire from the stop light switch through the 7 1/2 amp fuse.

Hotrod, it is a purple wire to the stop light switch (not pink). If the 2 fuses were blown there should be NO power to the buss bar and stop lights. What did you mean by the fuses were "goo"? If they were actually melted, then a LOT of power was sent through the circuit.

Check out your TL links at the gearbox under the car as Randy mentioned. The drivers side shorter link should be towards the front of the gearbox.

My 56 car had manual switches hooked up directly to the solenoids (bypassing the limiting switches on the gearbox). When I removed the manual switches and turned my system on, the links were already past the limit switches and the rear end of my car tried to raise and then dropped to the ground. The links had passed the center point and went all the way around and ended up with the shorter drivers side link behind the gearbox.

I tried to power the motor to 'un-twist' the links but the worm gear in the gearbox was not held in place (it moved back and forth as the motor turned it). As the worm gear moved forward it bound against the end of the gearbox. When that happened my 30 amp fuse blew.

I ended up having to remove the TL motor manually turn the worm gear to finally un-twist the links (whew!).

It's very important to verify the position of the mechanical parts are oriented per the top view in SM fig 21 before doing anything. If everything looks good there, I would look closely at the 'compensator control box' wiring and the small control link rod.

I apologized about the typo, but the fuses are GOOD and you are right about the wire being purple instead of pink. I looked at the T/L links per Randy only to discover I couldn't tell what both of you are calling the "drivers side shorter link". I also looked in the SM at Fig. 21 in the "Twin Ultrmatic Transmission" section and it has a picture of "how to extract the rear oil pump suctuion tube". Where do I find the top view in SM fig 21?

It's in the suspension and steering section of SM but here it is. Short transverse link on drivers side and in front of compensator.

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Hotrod - If you find that your car's compensator links are oriented correctly and all the wiring is good (no loose or broken conections,etc.) then check the Control Switch Link rod. It moves the compensator control switch left or right to raise and lower the rear end. It may have been bent or distorted while the front end was lifted, possibly holding the control switch so the rear end is at it's highest. You might also disconnect the control link rod at its middle connecting link and manually move the control switch to lower the rearend.

Dear Hotrod:

I was working on a 56 that had the same problem. The wiring was good but T/L didn't work. By chance Dwight Heinmuller called. He told me the manual is wrong and that the unit was 180 off and past the limiter switches. So I unloaded the rear, jumped the solenoids, and wound the thing around 180.

I never worked on one of these where someone had forgotten to turn off the T/L when jacked up. But this is what happens.

Of course next time I will see the short/long bars in the wrong position and fix it right away.

Cheers