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My electric is wired just as West's pump is. The electric is only used a primer when the car has been sitting for several weeks, or if the vapor lock rears it's ugly head. Otherwise the car runs off the normal manual pump and just pulls through the normally off electric pump. No rube-golderberg plumbing is required if you buy an electric pump that has a clear passage when off. Also I made sure I only got a 3.5psi electric pump, so this negated the need for the regulator. Even with the electric running, I have never had any issues with it causing flooding at the carb.

The fuel in the crankcase problem because of a pump diaphragm rupture is not really a concern of mine with this setup, as since I am running off the manual pump during normal operation, I should notice pretty quickly if the manual pump begins to fail.

I have a small toggle switch under the dash near the e-brake handle. This is wired to to the ON side of the ignition switch (aka switched power). So the ignition has to be on and the fuel pump toggle switch turned on for the electic pump to run.

Usually if the car has been sitting for several weeks, I will put the key in the ignition, turn it to on, flip on the electric pump for about 5 seconds, then turn the pump off, and then start the car normally. It then fires right up.

This is turning out to be a good thread. A couple more questions below.

Attached are the two methods from the PAC, Library, Tech Tips, Electric Fuel Pumps article (legacy website, no direct url).

JW, you're probably right. But, if you only use the electric fuel pump intermittently AND have a pressure control gauge on it, the likely hood of pumping fuel into the crankcase from the electric fuel pump is pretty low.

The disadvantage of the parallel line is appearance in the engine compartment above the mechanical fuel pump near the carburetor. I know plenty of people would discount that. Better to have the car safe, running properly and protected. That was my approach for most of the 50-plus years I owned my car to keep it running. Of course, now I have literally paid the price of all those substitutions to re-store it.

Keith...??? FUEL FILTER substitution for CHECK VALVE: I was told the fuel would only flow one way through the fuel filter. If that isn't so, then I need to replace the 2nd fuel filter in the main line with a check valve. I would also move the 1st fuel filter to the tank side of the Tee so it filters for both lines.

???ECH TG6053 is the NAPA 3-way switch I bought. It's 12v, but does that matter for this switch? It took a while to find it and locate one in the Portland area. I drilled a hole in the underside of the dash to the left of the glove box. I'm in the process of wiring it and will take pix tonight.

EDIT:
Kev, I read the info with a strong desire to believe it's true because I wouldn't know any better. Like "the electric fuel pumps will keep spewing gas under the car if you get in an accident with disastrous results. (my paraphrase of many comments on this subject.)"

So yes, I wanted the best info to do it right with greatest safety, least damage, etc. This is what I thought I was doing and getting the necessary equipment to do it.

What is the name and model number of the 6v 3.5psi pump you have? Might help someone who hasn't gone through rigmarole already.

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Most regular inline fuel filters that I have seen do NOT have an internal check valve, but most electic fuel pumps do.

The directional arrow on most fuel filters are there so they are installed in the correct orientation to present the largest surface area of the filter element to the incoming (dirty) side of the fuel.

Just make sure to install a fuel filter before the electric pump as nothing eats and electric fuel pump up faster than grit and debris. Most of use have installed the filter and pump back near the tank on the frame rail. This keeps everything under the hood bone stock.

The electric fuel pump is use is the E-8011, available from CarQuest, or Napa too, among others. I believe it is made by Airtex, Carter and/or Federal Mogul.
Online prices seem to be around $45, but I think the store price is around $65. No need for a regulator.

I have the 12v of that same pump.

CHECK VALVE. I'll get one in place of the fuel filter and move the other filter to the tank side of the Tee.

WIRING: I have a TG6053 switch ON- OFF- MOMENTARILY ON. Don't tell me if you're laughing. Here's the diagram I made, but I don't know what goes where. It must be simple because there is no wiring diagram that came with this rather expensive switch.

I feel stupid, but I don't care because I care more about getting this working.

The only clue is RED embossed next to terminals 1 and 2. So I put the battery on that side of the switch.

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Please confirm the switch is 3 position ie the handle stays in center or at one end but is spring loaded back to center at the other end. Also, the handle looks as if there might be a lens or a light in the end. Is that the case?

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EXACTLY, Howard.

YES. The switch is off in the center position. It is springy and bounces back if you press it one way and stays switched if you press it the other.

YES it has a light in the end of toggle. (prob why it was spendy. Didn't notice that til I got home)

I believe the light will be 1 and 2. If you have a ohmmeter you can confirm the others but normally center will be the common and the end terminals will be switched. You should be able to place the ohmmeter on center and by moving the handle verify which of the others is connected. Normally in those type switches the active terminal is opposite the way handle is tilted.

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Thanks much, Howard. I do have an ohmmeter so I will check that. No juice, right? Just a continuity check?

Sorry (but you should have seen how puzzled I was installing the multi-terminal backup light switch from Max Merritt! My friend Vaughn figured it out.)


So no wires go to 1 or 2. It's internally connected already?