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Just continuity between center and one side if toggle is one way and center and other side if toggle opposite. Hard to say exactly how they have the light connected or what kind of light source it is but would be to other two. Won't be used so just leave them empty. I believe you said was 12v so probably wouldn't do much on 6 even if connected.

Thanks, Howard. Can't wait to get home. Will take pix tonight and upload.
Joe

In #1 in this thread I said the Tan/Brown wire from the Airtex 8011 attaches to the ground, just the opposite of the product instructions, sort of, because the car is a Positive (+) ground, and because in some forum, perhaps on another Packard site, that was the advice.

The product instructions assume the ground is negative. But the ground is the ground, no matter whether it is positive or negative. I read in some forum to reverse the wiring and attach the Tan/Brown wire to the ground, instead of attaching the black wire to the "ground (-)" per the instructions. I called Sact Vintage Ford where I bought the pump and they said Fords of that vintage are + ground, too, and that doesn't matter. Attach black wire to ground and tan wire to the switch, even tho the signs of those terminals are the opposite.

The pump activates, but doesn't stop unless I release the switch. If it were working, it would pump to its pressure and stop.

We will see tonight. I will switch the wires. I will also get a reading on the pump pressure.

Here is the pump, needle valve and gauge installed, with fuel filter far right. The tan wire is held by the bolt holding the bracket to the center of the frame cross member. Right next to the gas tank.

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Joe, I don't think the pumps actaully stop running when they come to pressure, "I believe" they just have some kind of pressure relief in them prevents them from pumping over their rated PSI.

I had a Carter 6-volt electric fuel pump on my 1939 Cadillac 60 Special, and it would stop pumping when pressure was reached. This was about 15 years ago. Maybe different pumps behave differently?

(o[]o)

I didn't try to start the car, so maybe it is wired correctly. The pressure showed 10 psi and turning down the valve didn't reduce it. That seemed strange. But because of the non-stop action, I assumed it wasn't working right and may be wired incorrectly. We will see tonight. This may be a "nevermind." Sort of like every time I call my physician and ask How long have I got, Doc? Thanks.
Joe

If you find the needle valve doesn't do the job, Summit has Holley regulators in 1-4 or 4.5-9 ranges. Holley's are supposed to be a decent product and this one has gotten decent press on other sites but haven't tried them. Just avoid any of those that are the little flat pancake style with a large knob on one side. Those have caused problems for some here.

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Joe, please explain why you are using a needle valve? I have heard of these being used by others, but they never said why they used them. Electric fuel pumps have check valves in them maintain pressure, why would you need another valve? Thanks.

(o[]o)

Jdub,

The answer is I don't know what I'm doing, but I'm faithful about following the advice of others. Sometimes it works out and sometimes not. I've been lucky.

I was just going to stick a 6v fuel pump on the fuel line and call it good. But no, I had to start reading. Back in the day a neighbor, to help me keep my car running, put (I think) a 12v fuel pump on the fuel line. He had one on his 1939 Cadillac convertible sedan. When you turned on the ignition it thumped about 10 times and stopped. It wasn't switched, so it pumped as needed, that is , when the pressure dropped. It worked great for years, but on a trip down I-5 I stopped to check my oil while getting gas and it was way over Full. It was thin and smelled of gas.

The diagram had ruptured on the mechanical pump. Fortunately I happened to have a box of left over parts in the trunk which included a single-action fuel pump and the mechanic attendant replaced the double action with the single. I never associated the cause of the rupture with too high fuel pressure as a result of the electric fuel pump. And maybe it didn't in my case.

Not until I read a thread on fuel pump issues here and the article on PAC's Library Tech Tips on Electric Fuel pumps. It just advises that electric fuel pumps pump at 10 psi and Packards like 3.5-5 psi, so put a pressure regulator on the line after the pump so the carburetor isn't overwhelmed. All this was being considered before it was advised to put a switch on the pump and use it only when needed, to start up after sitting a few days and to overcome vapor lock. But if you are to run it all the time, then you should add a regulator or what happened to me years ago could happen to you.

A place in Detroit has a fuel pressure regulator, but I looked locally and every place I went looked at me kind of weird. But when I explained that I wanted to control the fuel pump, a hydraulics supply place .. referred from an oil filter service place and also by a diesel fuel injection place...came up with a needle valve plus gauge as a substitute.

But as it turned out, adding a 3-way toggle switch and using the electric pump only as needed probably doesn't require the valve and gauge. I will say this. The gauge indicates the line is at 10 lb when the pump is on. This is the popular Airtex 8011. Big Kev has one that pumps only 3.5 psi, but I don't know what brand that is. After going through all this, I'd say that's the one to get no matter how you rig it up.

I haven't started the car yet. About to take it off jack stands. If it starts right up after sitting 2 weeks, I'll know it's wired correctly despite advice from the Ford place today. The motors on these pumps do in fact run continuously, even though they reach the desired 10 psi pressure. They have a bypass valve so I may have it wired correctly after all.

Joe

Hi Joe,
In order to save my battery from getting a bashing after a period of standing I fitted a 6 volt SU electronic fuel pump to my 34. I placed it under the hood the gas tank side of the mechanical pump using tee pieces to connect it into the line. From there, again using tee pieces, I connected into the carb therby bypassing the mechanical pump. The electic wiring was taken from the ignition switch (Negative live/Hot) to another toggle switch (On/off) and from there to the pump and the pump earthed (Grounded)to positive.
So all I do now after a lay up period is to turn on the ignition, then the toggle switch. From there you can hear the pump prime itself and also visually see the ampmeter fluctuate. In a short period the ticking stops and I switch off the toggle switch. The car then starts within a couple of turns and saves the battery and of course is now running off the mechanical pump.
Hope this helps.
Terry