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Hey Gang,

I just got the starter from my '51 200 Deluxe back from Philbin, a local rebuilder, and while they did a beautiful job of exterior restoration; the gear is in the fully extended position - which is why I took it in in the first place.
I've attached a picture showing what I mean.

Is this the way it's supposed to look? I was expecting the gear to be retracted. They installed a new Bendix Spring.

I called them when I got home as (like an idiot) I didn't look all that closely when I picked it up. Besides, they guy on the desk doesn't do the rebuilding of the starters.

I'm taking it back in tomorrow morning when the "Boss" is there and would like a little ammunition as I don't really know.

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You probably have the anti-kickback pin which is engaged and preventing retraction now. Several stories here of a grating noise coming from the starter area when engine is turned over by hand. In several cases the pinion had stayed out because the engine didn't start the last time tried. The engine has to start and spin the Bendix fast enough in the reverse direction for centrifugal force to retract the pin. Once pin released, the reverse spin and inertia can retract the Bendix. I also would have thought the rebuilder would have left it in the back position.

Thank you Howard once again.

I'm going to print out your answer and take it with me tomorrow.

From your description of how the starting procedure is supposed to take place, I wonder if there was anything wrong with my starter in the first place. I do suspect I need to rebuild the carb - as when cold, the engine seems to take it's time getting all 8 up and firing. It's a slow build of RPM which might make the retraction of the of the pinion problematic.

Anyway, thanks to you I feel I can at least go in and stake out a position. I didn't even know about anti-kickback pin so I would have been really at sea.

If nothing else, I have a beautiful starter. If my camera hadn't quit on me, I would have posted more pictures to show what a truly great job they did.

As I sit here mulling over your response, I can imagine I'll be told to install the starter and that then everything will be fine. We'll see.

I'll let you know how it all turns out.

Maybe I'll even get to the engine number tomorrow!

Your rebuilder is most likely familiar with the mechanism but here is Packards description if you need it for reference rather than my crude synopsis.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/SC/SC-VOL26NO9.pdf There is also a bulletin 52-T31 describing a noise which can happen on occasion with that Bendix.

Thank you Howard!

I printed out the SC you mentioned along with the STB. Armed with those as well as your posting last night I went forward to the rebuilder. It turns out that you and he were on the same "page". He also said that the Bendix Drive he installed was of the "new" type mentioned in the Service Counselor of Sept. 1952.

So, home I go to install my new starter. I must say that the difference was amazing. I had been getting clanging, thuds and loud operation. It wasn't how I remember my Grandmother's '35 sounding when starting but I figured that was a lot of years ago. I did check the ring gear to make sure it was still OK and it was undamaged.

From the first moment I pressed down on the accelerator, I realized just how near death my starter had been. I had forgotten to put in my hearing aid (needed from too much time spent in Disco's during the '70s) and I could barely hear the starter operating. What I did hear was a lot closer to Gram's '35 than what I was hearing formerly. It now sounds like a Packard!

So Thank you once again Howard and all.

Didn't get to the engine number today - ran out of warmth with temperatures dipping into the 30's by 4pm. Hopefully tomorrow.

Here are Before and After shots of the Delco-Remy starter from my '51 200 Deluxe.

Philbin Group here in Portland, OR did the work and I'm really happy with their work - Looks good and works like new!

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Ive gone through a bunch of rebuilt starters for my 52 200,I got them from Kanter and Max Merrit each time they end up not working so well or failing one even sort of exploded internally ,probably engaging while engine running ,always nicley painted but they must not have fixed the internals
,they would act like the bendix would be 1/2 retracted by nature of a scraping noise that sounded the little gear was contacting the spinning flywheel .I was advised to shim the starter ,
interestingly the problems ended with a rewire! I figure they're ,must have been a current leak from a short holding the bendix out partway .a local quality rebuilder did the last one and with the new engine harness I havent had any problems except if the battery went low ,(I had a bad generator rebuild and didnt realize it !)
The start swich(new replacement) in the carb would stick "on" and the starer would stay engaged ,I took it apart and honed out the little channel that the sliding thing with the ball and bevel and spring is in which seems to help .Interestingly when I had to use a 12 v jump box to start the car jump ,the start switch would not disengage untill I took of the 12 volt battery clips from the battery poles funny how all the proper function rely's on other component proper function ,and one thing out starte to knock out other things I have found a "GROUP 3" 6 V battery which has 900 cch ,closer to the 1100 original speck Ive heard metioned bu Ill have to enlarge the battery holder to take a big 16" long battery thats 1/2' taller

Jim, here is what I think: The starter gear spun out when the rebuilder bench tested it. If it was me I would go ahead and install the starter, as is. It should work fine. The gear will be retracted when you start the engine. All of this discussion is valuable, and benefical - no doubt about it - and I can understand why you would be concerned, but I think your problem is a simple one.

(o[]o)

On any rebuilt starter it's ez to do an inspection. Grab the gear between thumb and index finger and move it perpindicular to the shaft. THis checks any wear in the gears bushing. Do the same test by pinching SHAFT between thumb and index finger to test for any slop in the drive end bushing. USe a good lite source and look at it real close.

IF the starter (or generator) has a band over one end then remove the band and inspect the commutator and brushes. Compare to pictures or a pair of new brushes. The brushes should set SQUARELY on the commutator and not have one end cocked up away from commutator.

A rebuilt starter should be clean inside and no evidence of fraying wire insulation. Commutator should be shiny with slight undercut of seperator mica. Of course such inspection assumes a removeable band. Not all strters have such a band.

I just removed my delco starter frommy '51 300 and would like advice about cleaning and inspecting it. Starter works great except for the intermitten issue of not turning. The not so fun activity of jumping the hot leads with a screwdriver works every time, but i need to fix it.

Any links or documents would be helpful... i have had no luck finding the details i require (pretty much a novice).

Thanks Aaron

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