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My 51 200's turn signals don't cancel when the steering wheel is turned. I've checked for the metal studs on the bottom of the wheel - they're there, but the steering wheel doesn't go far enough down to hit the turn signal cam. I've tried several times removing the wheel and reinstalling it with no sucess. Is there a secret to getting the steering wheel to slide further down on the steering column? thanks

The wheel is pretty well fixed at the height it sits on the shaft so the other variable is the shroud assy which is just a slide over.

Try loosening the clamps under the dash and at the steering box end and see if the entire shroud will slide up a tiny bit. The bottom end fits over a shoulder at the steering box and may be a little tight but should move (with slight persuasion) if necessary. As I recall the gap between wheel and top of shroud is 1/16+" or so which puts the lock ring around the shaft slightly recessed into the bearing at top end of tube. It sounds as if your gap may be more.

If for some reason the sliding is too difficult or is not successful perhaps a spacer can be inserted or something can be done with that upper shroud attachment area or the switch mounting to space it closer to the pins and still clear the lever opening.

How far do the pins extend. I believe they should be out about 1/4 to 5/16--although I wouldn't mess with them if not. I have seen a few broken ones so believe they may be somewhat brittle.

thanks - I'll try that tomorrow.

Well, I moved the shroud up about 1/4", and added spacers under the turn signal mechanism, with no sucess. I replaced the turn signal switch several years ago, and I'm now wondering if it is the correct year. In looking at the prongs, they don't seem to line up with the canceling tabs on the turn signal switch. Looks like I need to pull the wheel off again and measure both the prongs and the tabs. I may have to drill into the back of the wheel and add some new prongs.

Have they been non-functioning (non-cancelling) since the day you installed the new switch, or is this a more recent event?

and I'm now wondering if it is the correct year

21st series switch I believe is smaller & don't think it will line up and properly fit in the later shrouds because of lever attachment. There is a different switch for 22nd series and I think that is only due to wiring differences since the brake lights don't go thru it. All 23rd to 54th are the same. I suspect even the 22nd switch has the same spacing as the later ones because the deluxe plastic steering wheel available for 22nd-25th cars is the same part number--unless there a second set of pin holes for the different switch. The parts manual does list the pins as available separately.

When you say the pins don't mesh can you tell if the lever is moving the catch pieces far enough toward shaft to be in position. Is the switch locking in the detent position and holding or is it not making full travel? I don't have a 51 to check but on this 47, the catches move to about 1/8" or so from shaft when switch is detented on. Pins hit the flat pieces about midway between the "Vee" and tip. Borrowing one of 51Packards photos, the later switches appear to be almost the same mechanism. This picture may have been taken showing the flopping lever problem. I can't tell if it's activated or not to see where catches land in relation to shaft.

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I'll pull the wheel again over the weekend and photograph the mechanism. The canceling feature was working prior to the replacement, so I suspect I have a 50 or earlier vintage. thanks

Here are some pics of the switch in my '51 in neutral, right and left turn. Also pics of the pins on my wheel. Hope this helps.

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Finally solved the problem of the non-canceling turn signal. I do have a 48-50 switch - bought the wrong one when replacing the old defective one. The switch works great, it just wouldn't cancel, as the 1/2" rods on the back of the steering wheel didn't reach far enough. Finally went down to Ace Hardware and bought a stainless steel tube (3/16" x .028) for a few bucks. I cut off two sections just under 1" long and slid them over the original rods. A little JB Weld and a crimp from some sidecutters and the tube is tight. The signal switch now cancels when the wheel is turned. Wish I'd thought of that earlier!

Congratulations. You've earned a degree in steering wheel removal and deserve a medal for perseverance.

The problem and cure is interesting though. I wonder for sure where the difference is. The deluxe accessory wheel is the same part number from 48 to 52 so one would think the pins would be the same length. The outer decorative shroud is the same for 23-25th with Ultra so that should be the same height having the same lever exit slot. The only difference is the covering tube which goes down to steering box. That height is the only variable to fixed wheel position at the end of shaft and must be where the difference is. Curious what changed with the surrounding items being the same and mounting to it.