Packard Forum Index » General

Hello Packard enthusiasts, I have noted when it comes to starters, generators and regulators, there is a lot of supposition and head scratching as to their operation and the interaction of the parts to the whole. I speak of my own electrical mechanical ineptitude exclusively. When my 1951 Packard 200 developed a starting problem, (autolite system), I checked all I could check and decided that the problem was the starter. After checking the "big three" (Kanter, Max, Sandy), the cost of a "rebuilt starter", shipping and possibly a core charge was daunting. Yet, in the back of my head I questioned my own diagnosing ability. I searched the local yellow pages and decided to find someone locally (Vancouver, WA.) that would check the starter for problems, before I spent a lot of money and found the problem still exists, or, a new problem is introduced into the mix by buying a replacement unit. I left my starter at "NW Starter and Generator Exchange", Vancouver, WA. Owner (Trace Phillips) called me back in two days and told me that starter bench tested ok, he would like to check and lube the bushing(s)? and bearing(s)?, check and replace the brushes (if needed) and "clean up" the commutator. Trace did the lubing of components, I was told the brushes and bushing(s)? are "really OK" within tolerance. Total bill: $29.00 Now, I could feel secure that the starter is good to go... Stick with me here......

I put the starter back in and found the exact same problem presented........The cause: A damaged tooth on the ring gear binding the starter. As discussed in another post. Two weeks later, while backing the same car up, there was a "wirrrrrrrrring" sound from under the hood, and the charge light was flashing rapidly. OH S**T!!!! the voltage reg is self destructing. I got my "mechanical ears" on and found the generator was making a louder sound in the center of the body than at the ends.

ah-hah!! the generator is bad..........or is it the regulator, or, oh-crap, it's both of them? I removed the generator and took it to the shop. Two days later Trace called me and said the rear bushing was bad and the front bearing is OK, but it was the original (open bearing) needing lubrication from an external source VIA a small hatch lid on the exterior of the generator.......He wanted to replace the front bearing with a newer sealed unit, replace the rear bushing and "service" whatever spins around on the center shaft??? Total cost: $38.00. Wow!! Now I know the generator is "good" and reinstalled on car. Trace gave me written (WITH PICTURES) instructions on how to polarize the generator after reinstalling........WHAT!!!! "touch one wire to another at the regulator and remove after momentarily creating a spark" "mumble, mumble, damn car's gonna burn up.......... OK, generator's in, wires are hooked up, battery's charged, I polarized it. Start car.......charge light is on, voltage at the battery at 2000 rpms 6.2 volts..............What the*****! Jeeeez! now the voltage regulator is bad too. This item too was covered in a previous post. Two days later I consult the pictures of the disassembly on my Smart Phone, notice three separate wire attachments to the generator not two. HUuuuumm, take the "ground wire" from the "armature post" on generator and put it under noise suppression condenser and tighten screw. Interior generator light is off, generator output at 2000 rpm, lights on: 7.3 volts. Morale of the story: Find a good local shop and avoid making expensive mistakes like I would have done, replacing good (suspect) parts when they can be fixed with nickles, dimes or dollars. I talked to Trace and asked if he would mind if I recommended him to this forum. If you need to send a core and pay for shipping to get an rebuilt unit, why not have your original unit fixed and returned? Please keep in mind my prices are what he did for my starter and generator. However, I feel what ever he recommends is honestly what the unit needs.


NW Starter and Generator Exchange

12209 NE 4th Plain Rd. STE. E

Vancouver, WA. 98682

360-573-8278
info@nwstarter.com
Trace Phillips

Quote:
AMEN to that!

Good story! I guess many of today's collectors grew up in the era of mostly maintenance-free cars, but it never fails to amaze me how few of them will read the owner's manual or check a lubrication chart and see that distributors, starters and generators have those little oil and grease cups for a reason.

I think a good practice when buying an older car is to assume none of the lubrication needs were properly attended to previously; get the chart and do it all, then you have a baseline for future lubrication needs.