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Also, how the heck do you remove the steering wheel? I don't want to break the steering wheel horn in case someone needs it but I can't figure out how to get at the bolt otherwise.

On the engine look anywhere from the just ahead of the distributor to above the starter motor and just below the head parting line. You should find a stamped number (sometimes faint and grease filled) on a smooth area that begins with a letter. The letter indicates year, the next number is size and remaining are the production sequence. There may be suffix letters indicating running changes or options. The engine serial number chart is available in the literature sectionhttps://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/PackardEngineSerials.pdf . Heads were interchangeable and frequently swapped to change compression ratios so the 327 is not really indicative of engine size.

On the horn button use your palm and press down against a spring and cushion and rotate counterclockwise slightly.

Press down on the horn button and turn one way or the other to release it. Then you can get access to what is underneath.

@BigKev, Dude, you rock, thanks.

Also, @HH56 the block number is H404477, indicating that it's actually a 1949 model 327.

How do I decipher the body/chassis age? Absolutely everything on the ID plate on the bulkhead is faded out, but the stamped in numbers read "2392-5- 44054" complete with space. Those are the only legible marks on the plate.

2392 is a 6 passenger standard sedan on the 2301 chassis but with that engine number I don't know if it's an optional engine or changed or possibly a renumbered new car. The 22-23 series and factory renumbering of unsold cars is an interesting subject. I'm just getting started in Robert Neals new book and am sure he will explain it quite well.

The H is right but 2301 chassis would have had the H2xxxxx. If it is actually 2372-5- then engine would be right and it would be a deluxe or super8 sedan on the 2302 chassis. That information is in the Intro section of parts manual and other places.

The -5- should indicate a 50 model --but again the engine number-- and the remaining numbers are the production sequence of that particular model. They started the sequence numbering of production numbers at either 1001 or 2001. I'd have to look it up to be sure which in that series.

This sleuthing is fun.

So, as an aside, I graduated from GMI with a mechanical engineering degree, chassis concentration (most of which I've since forgotten through disuse) and I am really impressed by this car. Most of what you see here doesn't happen in mainstream cars of the era for 10-15 years. Also, I hadn't even heard of rotary hydraulic shock absorbers before purchasing this car. SO COOL.

(BTW, I'm wondering if I'm at the bottom of the age scale for this site at 31)

To expand a bit on Howard's information, assuming the data plate is original to the car, you do have a 1950 23rd Series Standard Eight Sedan. The car was not an un-sold 1949 model re-numbered as a 1950 model (I just finished that chapter in Mr. Neal's book). As you have already figured out, it doesn't appear that the engine is the one that came with the car from the factory, although I suppose anything is possible. The car should have a 288 with an engine number between H291000 and H295000. When, how and why the car ended up with a 1949 23rd series 327 Super Eight is anyone's guess.

PS... if you aren't using the front seat... there are some parts I'd be interested in... These parts

A couple of things that might be of interest is the embossed number on the firewall just above the heater and if still present, the Briggs body number on a little plate nearby. Perhaps O_D has enough information in his database to get some idea where in the series timeframe the car was built or at least the information could be added to his database.

More progress over the last few days. The steering wheel is pulled, engine electrics removed, fuel tank and exhaust off, parking brake disconnected, kickpanel plates removed, and probably a few other things. I think I have to remove the rear bumper still and after that, as far as I can tell the body is ready for lift off. Very exciting.









The further I dig the more astonished I am that I drove this car home. Take a wild guess what that modern wire wrapped around the insulation free coil wire was powering. Note, this is in as-bought and driven condition... ready? Fuel pump.



And this one was a bit of fun. There was a spare guard from fork truck laying around and it just so happens to fit almost exactly in between the frame rails. If we were going Mad Max with this build this would definitely end up as the grille. As it is, onward and upward!

Interesting project! I'm learning stuff I will need to know in the future as I work on my '48, such as how to pull the steering wheel.

How hard was it to get the front cap off? I've seen assembly line photos of the whole unit, grille and all, being mated to the body and frame. I need to do that to mine.

Plus, my car is missing the rear seat bottom. Are you interested in selling yours?

Thanks!