Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

So much for adding this to an existing thread on heat risers in Post-War...so as not to start a new thread on heat risers.

Though Brian did respond, which I appreciate.

Can anyone tell me if I have my heat riser/heat control valve set up right? The engine doesn't warm up very quickly, so I suspect I have it wrong. Backwards usually looks right to me.

Looking at the photos, am I right or wrong, that if the thermostat spring is hooked as shown, the shaft will turn counter clockwise as the engine heats up?(In my photos I called the shaft the "rod.")

I found this Q-Tip by Fred Mauck in a PI newsletter Fall 2010. But while I "get" what the heat riser is supposed to do, I can't see inside the manifold. And it looks like there are 2 flaps in there. Two flaps set at like a 190 degree angle.

On the other side of the manifold currently, the counterweight itself starts at the top when cold and then can be pushed down in a counter clockwise direction.

EDIT: Now I see. The shaft on the counterweight side can't turn clockwise when the engine heats up, because the counterweight can only turn counter clockwise from its current position at the top.

So now I think the spring may be installed backwards, or I'm wrong that the shaft turns counter clockwise on the thermostat side as the spring warms.



Thanks for any suggestions, except that I shouldn't try to do this stuff.

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On my 47 356 which appears to be the same mechanism, at engine cold the weight is as you have it and pushing down on the weight is against the spring. The spring has the bend in the slit at the bottom of housing instead of at top and winds with the strip starting at outside going toward fender then up and winding around and in to center.

This does seem to jive with the manual but must confess, the engine was rebuilt many years ago by a Packard shop but has not been run so I can't vouch it is correct.

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HH I believe you have it right.

If your spring direction is correct, maybe try adjusting the tension slightly.

Thanks, Howard. Thanks, Dave. I will make sure the counterweight is all the way to the top and give the spring and extra tightening. Then I'll tighten the cup in place.
I'll correct my photos after I see it open. But I think you're right, Howard. It needs tightening.

Thanks, Joe.

Here are some photos of a 22nd Series Custom 8 manifold showing the thermostat and counterweight sides.
It looks like you may not have the right anti-rattle spring on the counterweight side. The proper spring has an extended loop on the lower end that slides down on the slotted pin as the counterweight rotates so that it does not apply any tension until the weight is at its lowest position.

Brian

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Double thanks, Brian. My spring doesn't have much tension. Floppy and weak. I fully intended to give the thermostatic spring a tightening, but forgot, engine should be cool before doing it.

Instead I worked on the wiring for my 6-amp converter box so I can run one an iPad and keep it charged on my trips. I'm wiring to the cigarette lighter, so I can plug in there.

Please show, if you can, what you're doing with the converter, what converter you're using, where you got it, etc.
Thanks

It's not clear to me just what engine/year we're discussing the heat riser from, but perhaps this crude sketch I made years ago of the heat riser on a 34 Eight (320 engine) will be of help.

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OD: Thanks for the drawing. It's a 356 engine manifold.

West: I need to leave for work but here are some pix. I originally got a 2 or 2.5 AMP one and when I took it to car toys they said it would be fine until I turned up the volume. I wanted an entertainment center in my glove box. I found www.6to12volt.com who sells an 8 amp converter for 6v positive ground to 12 volt negative ground. Then I decided, just get the new iPad, plus apps and netflix and the rest was history (pandora, gps, aroundme, etc.)

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