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I had a local machine shop replace my valve guides,in the process they damaged my block. Should I still use this block or try finding another,I have a lot invested in the machine work and new parts for this one.

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That's a shame. Most of these modern outfits think if they screw up you can just buy a crate motor and chop the thing up into a junkrod.

As is, the motor will still run. The guide in question will run hotter than the other cylinders.

The tappet will still go up and down but will wear oval eventually. A good machinist could install an insert for the tappet.

What caused this situation? If the motor is not cleaned sufficiently, soaked, and the area not gently heated prior to moving the guide, the carbon will split the block. Or it can be caused by not using the proper sized drift. The tappet portion is due to not cutting the guide off after it has moved or from careless attempts at same.

Once I did motor work on a very, very deteriorated V-12. The guides were stuck and rather risk cracking the water jacket I cut the guides off with a chisel. It worked out and the thing ran again.

If you don't plan on putting another 50,000 miles at 80 mph on the car it will probably do alright. I would just get a rebate from the machine shop and run with it. That will give you time to store a second block.

First thing I'd do is look for another mechanic, however that happened it indicates unfamiliarity with an engine design shared with so many other engines of the era, and lack of attention at the least. And I agree with Tim, it will probably run OK for a while, ultimately wearing the bore egg-shaped. And yes, you could bore and sleeve the tappet bore; I assume the engine is already removed from the car which would be necessary to do that properly. Looking for another engine block is probably the best longer term solution.

what size block would you need? I have a few in the shop I have not gotten to yet.

Thanks for the info, I also noticed there is a intake valve guide where there should be a exhaust guide will that make a difference? The engine is a 327 are the 288 blocks the same if I use my crankshaft and head.

Yes, you can use the 288 block with no problems. If changing from solid to hydraulic lifters then you will need to change the welch plug at the front of the lifter oil gallery as engine with hydraulics had a smaller hole there. Of course, for long term happiness use the solid lifters and cam.

I have a 53, 327. Valves were pulled for another project.

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The machine shop gave me a refund for their work,but I am still out the money for the cost of the block,the valve guides,and the 130.00 to have it acid dipped.I have a 288 that smokes a little but seems to run good. I think I will put that in the car for now, until I decide to build another 327, Thanks everyone for your support