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Okay, I recieved a drum puller yesterday, and went out today to give it a try. It is a Matco puller with three arms. I used a 1/2" drive ratchet, and a very large steel pipe. The steel pipe is about 4 feet in length, and is about an 1 1/2" to 2" in diameter. I used a solid iron stake to keep the drum from spinning. I wanted to try the method I believe Craig suggested to someone on this forum. But, the amount of force being exerted was enough to lift my car off the jackstands, and pull it towards me. At that point I decided it was time for lunch. I'm thinking if it doesn't get any easier, or come off in the next three days, I will go buy a propane torch and heat the hub. Any other ideas if she doesn't come off in the next 3 days?

-Garrett

I have never tried this, BUT others have said they loosened the nut several turns and drove around the block making left and right turns. I'm not recommending this - just reporting it.

I let mine sit under load for about two days, and then put a very small amount of heat on the hub. It did not get warm enough to change color, but hot enough that you would not want to touch the hub. (So, if it's cherry red, stop heating!)

Make sure that the retaining nut is on loosely- both of my rear drums popped off with a SERIOUS amount of force. Like, I think they would have flown through the garage wall if there was not something mechanical holding them in place.

Bottom line- I think heat is fine, but be careful.

All I can recommend is patience, patience. It took me three days of on and off work to get the rear passenger's drum off of my Patrician. Every four to six hours during the day I would pound the drum puller a few more whacks and then let it sit for a few more hours. On the third day, following a whack with my rubber mallet, there was a loud "bang" and viola!, the drum was loose. To further continue the story, the driver's rear drum came off in 10 minutes. Go figure. Just have patience, it will be rewarded.

GearRat52, I believe you may have better luck striking the "dog bone" part of the puller with a small sledge hammer. I believe it is the impact force that works better to free the drum from the axle than a constant pressure like you are using.

Also, strike the "dog bone" in the same plane as the wheel rotates. Resist striking the end of the puller that is in-line with the axle. Good advice about leaving the nut loosened a couple of turns. Also, make sure the brake adjustment is backed off and the hand brake is not engaged. The drums will come off.

Your extended wrench will come in handy to tighten the nut when you are putting it back together. You need a lot of torque (200 lbs plus) to adequately tighten the axle nut.

Good luck.

(o[]o)

Hey Guys,
Thank you all for the advice. I think the largest hammer I have on me is a 1 lbs. I will have to look around a few places to see if I have a mini sledge, thought I did. Using a hammer would be the better alternative. The prolonged force from the breaker bar was prying off one of the arms. So better placement of the iron stake, and quick strikes should fare better.

Extra service info and reference, and pictures.
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=8859&viewmode=flat&order=ASC&type=&mode=0&start=0


It may sound like a cannon when they release.

Hey Guys,
Finally got those stubborn drums off! I began working on the drivers side tuesday, and was able to have them off by saturday. The passengers side by the way took "at most" 10 strikes to come loose. Go figure; and the tool of choice was an 8 lbs. 36 in. sledge hammer. Before then I was using a meager, 1 pound hammer. So, the sledge made quick work of that. So glad I was able to find that sledge! And thank you for advising me to keep hammering away at it, instead of continuing to tighten it with a breaker bar.

-Garrett