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I figured I would bring this continuing saga over here and out of ther classifieds. I removed the second of the two pumps this morning so I could take detailed pics. As I stated prviously, the pump with the "hat" is the pump that came with the 400. The second pump is the one that came off the 200, installed in the 400 and commenced to puking fuel out the side. I could not find any tags on either of these pumps. If ya'll could help me I.D. these so I can get the correct rebuild kit, it would be awesome.

While I'm going to rebuild mode, I pulled the carb off the 200. Reason being is, during my adventure to Salado and back, I did noyice fuel leaking out through the linkage areas of the carb on the 400. I am including picks of the carb as well. It does have a tag that has "84S" on it. It also has "carter" on it as well.

I appreciate the replies, tips, words of encouragement and guidance from all that respond. I love being a part of the "Pack" Rats.....LOL

HotRod

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Check out Then and Now's site.http://www.maritimedragracing.com/antique_auto_parts_cellar.htm They have some pages on identifying pumps by looks and places to look for numbers. Usually numbers are stamped on one of the mounting flange edges -- but apparently sometimes rebuilders removed the factory stampings or replaced with their own.

IMHO, if there is gas leaking out of linkage areas -- assuming you mean places where linkage passes thru the casting -- then there may be enough wear that a rebuild kit alone won't do it and rebushing will be needed before it will work properly.

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Correct carburetor should be a WDG 767S, used in both the 300 and 400 models in 1951-52. Fuel leaking at the shaft could be due to a number of reasons including incorrect fuel level, leaking float, or leaking needle and seat, or as just previously suggested, excessive wear in the casting body and/or throttle shaft. If you look more closely at your own carb tag photo I think you'll see that its a 784S, used on the 1951 model 200 and a poor choice for an engine with nearly 40 more cubic inches.

Fuel pump #s are normally on the side of the mounting flange. See note on the Conversion Chart for alternative locations.

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The pump with the two "lids" and the flared fitting connections is the 37-50 style. For 51-54, the cast base with hose bibb connections was introduced. The pumps fit and function the same, just updated the connections for 51-54, which also eliminated some of the possible leak points. Suggest you rebuild the correct, later style, fuel pump or have Feltz Terrill, Terrill Machine do it. He should have this on the shelf and you'd have it next day. If you want, I will trade you a later core for the earlier core. Could send directly to Terrill if you want, as I have another fuel pump I need to send him anyway.
The carburetor is a Carter WGD 784S from the 51-200. The correct carb for the 400 is a Carter 767S, nearly the same, but jetted differently for the 327 vs. 288 engine.

Thanks for the update Flackmaster ! If you want the earlier (51 200) it's yours. I talked to Bill Shipp today and he advised/ suggested to go the route he did...6 volt electric. That's what he did on his 300 and just left the existing pump mounted in it's place. BTW, I need an address so I can send you the funds I owe you.

HotRod

You'd be better served to get the mechanical pump rebuilt. First of all, they are longer-lived than the 6-volt electrics and if you're observant, do give advance warning of pending failure; and secondly you'll want the vacuum booster portion of the mechanical pump working for the benefit of the windshield wipers.

But should you go electric and leave the mechanical pump in place, don't route the gas lines thru it or you'll just be pumping gasoline into the crankcase.

If you go electric, get one that you can pull through, and you can always get the mechanical rebuilt later it use it inline with the electric as a prime/backup.

The electric will need to be mounted back near the tank, with a modern filter before it. Take a look at my blog for more info. Here is a pic of my pump mounted up in the frame rail just forward of the tank. I ended up using a bigger filter.

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Appreciate the info BigKev. Already ordered the pump. Should be Friday or Saturday. I hope it gets here on Friday so I can put it in and get the 400 running again AND after I change the oil that you suggested due to fuel contamination. Saturday, I'll be on a road trip to get my new interior. Pics to follow.....


Just looked at your setup again. I ordered the same pump setup.

HotRod

Thanks for the info Owen. Talking to Bill Shipp, he advised the same thing. I'll bypass the orginal and only use the vacume side for the vacume advance. I'm not running wipers, just Rainex......LOL I should be getting my Spider wheel caps and my wiper domes here soon.

HotRod

The distributor vacuum advance is entirely independent of the vacuum booster section of the fuel pump. If it wasn't, it wouldn't function properly as it is intended to respond to changes in manifold vacuum and the purpose of the booster pump is to provide additional vacuum when the manifold vacuum drops.

I wish you'd reconsider and have the mechanical fuel pump rebuilt.