Interesting observation on size of the bumpers. Wonder why (using Steele's dimensions) they limited the travel on the TL by an inch overall.

Attach file:

---

  (94.58 KB)

Heater is a possibility and not without good reason. The standard Packard heater was not the fastest or most robust in a really cold climate if that is where the car is from. The only aftermarket heaters I can remember from then were the gas powered South Wind and one or two others but seem to remember all similar in shape--more vertical. Don't recall if many water heaters were available or not but again think they would have been much larger like the 40's Packard types.

I see a single screw hole and shiny area on the cardboard under the present heater plenum where something looks like it might have mounted but it looks too wide and vertically challenged to be for any heaters - also the holes look a bit big for the gas powered.

Think most would agree 50's were a wondrous time for add ons and assorted goodies so possibilities abound. AC would be my first guess too and the holes look to be about the right size and place for a typical hang on unit. Any sign of anything under the dash where brackets might have been? Believe there was one brands unit which straddled the tunnel and had legs that screwed to floor so maybe something there. An early mobile radio might be a thought since those had cables to route but anything else I can think of would probably leave depressions or holes on the cardboard dash cover.

Quote:

If this means what I think, I do believe this is/was a fairly common issue. Some cars are great with fit and others seem to be slightly less than horrible. There are a few suggestions in the body section of 55-6 manual but the 51-4 book goes into detail and methods of correcting better than the 55-6 does. There is one suggestion about spring hammering a particular flange if the problem not too severe--although am not sure I would try very hard even with protecting the paint--and there is not a lot of flange to bump down anyway so anything more than maybe a slight bit over requires something else. Another solution is "torquing" the door by placing an object on one corner to hold it out while pressing on the one that needs to go in. That takes a bit of practice though and might get things into more trouble. Am actually surprised the sedan has much issue as ones I've seen are usually the long heavy doors on hardtops which seem to be a bit prone to sag.

One thing I have also noticed is if you have repro weatherstrip, it seems a bit harder or maybe thicker than the original and doesn't compress well which adds to the problem. On mine, without weatherstrip all was beautiful but as soon as that was installed, have the same sticking out problem and the weatherstrip doesn't seem to be compressing much.

Electrical section, page 18.

Specs do call for Autolite but since they are mechanically interchangeable, hard to say what might have happened over the years and also, if late production maybe they were using what was available. Are the rest of electrics as per spec?

According to the illustration in manual, #1 plug wire location is slightly different on the two brands but in same general area. As we all know, one or two teeth off when reinserting will change things considerably. As long as #1 location is found again and firing order is maintained, everything will work just fine no matter where #1 is. If you want to redo things per manual, that will be easy enough to do. I would replace all the usual components and then see how it runs. Also, as PackardV8 pointed out on the wiring identification thread, some plug wires in close proximity can cause issues.

PackardV8 has added a note on the xref page re Melling lifters.https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/parts/searchform.php?PartDesc=lifter&FormsButton1=Search

Very nice bushings. The flexane does seem to hold up very well. Those I did several years ago still look good.

Re the poison and chrome problem, wonder if some of the kits advertised as "environmentally friendly" could be used in Australia. Here are a couple saying no hazardous products -- one can even be shipped by air (at least in US). Haven't seen any work done by the process so can't comment on whether it would be worth trying or would even look like the real stuff next to a piece that was done the old way.

http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/copychrome.htm

http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/reprochrome.html

Again one of those interesting only Packard can explain anomalies. I stand corrected on were they used in 53 as one picture of a Mayfair shows them and parts list says 2677-79 while another picture is without.https://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/1953%20Dealer%20Invitation.pdf

As long as the system is from a comparable chassis and is removed and installed complete, everything will work except the steering box between years. You will have to be sure and get all the components--even though they might look the same, there might be a subtle difference. In 55, believe the original plan was Monroe on junior cars and Bendix on seniors but that doesn't seem to be a hard rule and apparently completely thrown out in 56.

I have driven and owned both and while it is subjective, actually think the Monroe has a better feel. Others can speak to their experiences. As to reliability, believe they are comparable but again, others might have a different take. I would install either depending on which was available but if given the choice would go for the Monroe just for the simplicity. While the pumps and brackets will bolt up, the pumps have different pressure outputs for the two systems but are identical otherwise so that would be one thing to watch for in case someone had changed a pump in the past.

As you can see from the pictures, the Monroe installation is a bit less complicated since it is all enclosed in one housing while the Bendix has a separate control assy and power assy so needs more brackets and linkage.

Attach file:

---

  (67.09 KB)