Hi everyone,

Well, after the unseasonable warm Chicago winter, I finally opened the garage and got back to stripping down the rest of the front frame, steering and suspension to be prepared for paint. I pulled the center link (or is it a drag link?) and tie rods to prepare for paint. The tie rods are shot, so they will be replaced. Is there a service/rebuild that should be done on the center link where "inner tie rods" would be? I know that there are not inner ties, but I'm not sure how those pivot/rotations get serviced..

...and last question... both of those shafts are bent. ...and both shafts don't appear to be bent equally. Is that correct? I have included a picture.

Thanks,

Mark

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I am as guilty as the next person of swapping parts to find the problem. Something to keep in mmind tho... The old Motor manuals have directions on how to test all of the ignition components with a multi-meter. ...including checking grounds everywhere.

I once had a stripped threaded hold-down screw on the points mounting plate. It seemed to hold find everytime I tightened it. That was a pistol to figure out!

It's great that you found the issue!

I am probably wrong on this but milling the exhaust (or intake) flanges 3/16 seems to be alot. Some of those flanges are only about 3/8 thick at most, aren't they? I would be concerned that they will be too thin after milling and may crack when bolted on or heated up. ...just wondering.

Not questioning that they be bolted together before milling. I expect that they need to be.

Good luck,

Mark

If you blast anything, remember to seal all orafices/entries into the engine well. ...as blasting leaves media in places that you didn't think that were accessible.

...and when it comes time to remove said coverings, watch that loose media isn't present on the covering. It can then fall into the orafices on removal.

I rebuilt my fuel pump last summer and found glass beads in the fuel pump vent line. The filtering element stopped it from entering the crankcase, but I was surprised as heck to see it there.

Good luck,

Mark

When I went down there (about ten years back) I saw all of the cars stacked "two high". ...roofs caved and door window frames smashed beyond hope. That was in all makes.

Someone told me that over the more recent years they stopped stacking.

When I went, they really didn't seem interested in helping me out. I was looking for Packard (23rd) and '63 Impala parts.

Mark

Very cool. Not to hijack, but I have to ask the above posters... If steam is more powerful (at the pull-away) than diesel, where does an electric motor fit in? ...ie greater or less powerful than steam? I assume that it's stronger than diesel.

Thanks,

Mark

I went out for lunch today. It was a balmy 50 degrees. I started to break a sweat as I got out into the sun.

This weekend it will be in the 20's. So bring the long underwear!

Are you staying downtown Kev? Is there a trade show here this weekend?

Stay warm!

Mark

Hi all,

I'm at the point with only a few weekends left (in fall) that I can paint some more parts... After stripping the horns, I used the Eastwood Afterblast (phosphoric acid) as a final prep before painting. Well, after drying, I am getting a white crust on the part of the horn that is cast (potmetal or aluminum). Even after re-washing with a mild detergent and re-rinsing, it's still there.

I'm not sure that it is from the acid as I remember washing an aluminum head from a compressor and getting a crust after washing it with water. Is this thing leaching a salt? Should I try vinegar to neutralize? I have posted a question to Eastwood to see what they think.

I know there are a couple of chemists out here in Packardinfoland, and I thought that you guys might have some idea.

Thanks!

MArk

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I had spoken to Kris at www.runningboardrubber.com He was a nice guy. I have a 2271 seven pass. He was going to work with me to make the rear ones. I believe that he said that he had the front ones already made (or they were NOS) and the measurements that he gave me matched mine. (don't quote me on this tho).

Anyway, he said that he worked in the conveyor belt industry. So he uses that material as a base and cut the pieces to make the ribbing and block letters. He then glued them on and sprayed them with a something-urethene. He said that you couldn't tell that they were sprayed.

He wanted $850 for the pair. I hadn't followed up with him yet since I'm not to that point.

I am interested if anyone else uses him by springtime.

Mark

I found with mine, banging on the dogbone puller with one 5lb hammer didn't do anything. ...but with two 5 pounders hitting opposite, popped the drum off after three smacks.

You need alot of weight hitting the puller.