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Quote: That temperature range appears to be MuggyWelds big claim as to why their product is superior -- their flux is supposed to be the secret to proper temp and application. I know welding shops have rods that are supposed to work on potmetal but whether they have a flux indicator is a question.

The product on the website that I posted the link to melts at a higher temp than the muggy weld, I may order one of the muggy weld DIY kits....
I was in the garage today and did some easy jobs. Cut a board to go between the back seat and trunk, and new panels to go in the holes in the doors and back seat. A few pics some better than other of todays progress.
I am not sure which way the tube between the exhaust manifold and the choke should go. Over or under the ruber hose that goes to the heater core?
I mocked it up with welding rod in two pictures. Anybody know which way is correct for a 53 clipper?
Happy Valentines day!
edit....looking at some old pictures of my engine, the choke stove tube ran above the heater hose....

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I don't remember ever seeing a tube that small. Does the choke work well?? All I have seen have been 1/4" steel or sometimes copper tubing. Here is a photo from the archive showing the larger tube. I'm surprised that small tube can get enough heated air to the choke fast enough to keep the element from cooling down.

Also a comment on your panel. I notice it is on the seat side but usually it was thin cardboard and was on the trunk side to hide and dress up the bracing. Held on with some round head hooked end clips pushing thru the cardboard and into holes in the X bracing. If the panel is very thick will your seat back be able to fit over the top brackets and slide down far enough for the lower bolts that go in the wire slots on the seat to line up with the holes in the body?

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I don't remember ever seeing a tube that small

HH56, maybe you missed this statement - it's not tubing.

I am not sure which way the tube between the exhaust manifold and the choke should go. Over or under the ruber hose that goes to the heater core? I mocked it up with welding rod in two pictures.

I did miss the welding rod part! My bad. I thought it was the same size tubing used on oil gauges but at least the photo I posted confirmed it going over the hose.

Howard, thanks for setting me straight on the trunk divider. I had saved the old one, and I should have figured that out...I was wondering why the shape seemed to be smaller than it should be for the space I installed it...The original was 2mm thick, and this board is 3 mm thick. Enough that the original clips that hold it to the X brace are too short. I'll see if it fits on the trunk side, and either I'll figure something out for new clips, or look further for 2mm thick board.

My 1955 Clipper Sedan had the panel between the back seat and trunk mounted on the trunk side and fastened to the x-bracing. This may work on your 53 too.

(o{}o)

Confirmed. Panel goes on the trunk side of the bracing. It should be made of black cardboard paneling. Basically the exact same stuff that upholstery shops use for door panels. Because of the size/shape you need it to be a little flexible to work it around the wheel tubs to get it into place. Some places refer to it as "Black board".

Once you have it in place, have someone hold it against the X-Bracing from the truck side, and then you can use a drill bit to make all the holes from the seat side, using the bracing holes as the drill template.

Restoration Specialties has the correct style fasteners if you need any:

http://stores.restorationspecialties.com/b1311-clp-package-of-5/

Here you can see the separator panel installed in my car. This was taken as I was working on the the door windlace.

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Thanks Kev! I'll look for some Black beard- I mean Black Board in 2mm thickness. And get it on the other side. I know of one Auto upholstery shop nearby, I can check with them.