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Sunday 18th March, 2018

Maybe this should be titled "My confession"?

Today was PACA's AGM and as Secretary of the club thought it befitting to arrive in my "new" Packard, which I did. On Friday, had polished the rusty/pitted/pimpled chrome as best I could and polished the boot(trunk) lid, bonnet(hood) and both front mudguard(fenders) too. Looking closely you can tell they have been polished but there's not much difference between the polished and unpolished parts of the car that I can readily tell. In fact, the further you get from the car the better it looks! Then this morning checked fluids, etc and topped up the front shocks again. The right required 10ml and the left only 5ml. Have to check again and refill for a usage check following the extended run.

The trip there was 138kms(86miles), while the trip home was 153kms(95miles) because I took the long looping toll road option on the return journey. I hadn't done a journey of that length before with the Packard, only short local runs, and was concerned how it would handle it. In fact I'd been planning a round trip for earlier in the week to Goulburn and back as a proving run, about 160kms(100miles), but never got to do it. But not to worry, it's a Packard after all. Yes it is a Packard, but one that appears to run hot, and with a forecast of 40C(104F) I didn't want to push my luck or lack of it. Nevertheless set forth in the morning and including about a 25 minute stop for luncheon provisions, it was "bring a plate", made the trip in about 2 hours 40 minutes. And no overheating, temp gauge was about 2/3 to 3/4 all the way. It no doubt helped that it was morning and the ambient temperature hadn't peaked.

The return trip was another matter altogether, ambient temperature as forecast and the driver hot, bothered and tense in the circumstances. After about 8 miles, as the Packard travelled, pulled in and filled up with fuel to the dulcet tones of the filler whistle. When filled noticed the temp gauge was right up so naively stupidly bravely foolishly, insert your descriptor of choice here, I decided to top up the radiator. My original half formed plan was to do that before I left the AGM but distractions, my excuse, prevented me from doing so. Anyway, grabbed a cloth from the boot and with the engine running removed the radiator cap. The geyser of dirty, rusty water which shot forth caused me to jump back dropping the cloth and the radiator cap. Didn't matter that my arms were slightly scalded, after all it is very hot water. My concern was for the radiator cap as I thought it had dropped down a fixed drainage grate which I'd parked over. Couldn't see it down there, but with the grate a fixture, I wouldn't have been able to reach down about the 5ft if I had been able to see it.

Anyway putting that dilemma aside, procured a watering can and sloooowly topped up the radiator with the engine running. Took about 5 to 6 litres, about 5 to 6 US quarts, as it had lost a fair bit in the eruption and subsequent bubbling until it reached equilibrium. Tried to cap it with the rag while I went to the pay station in an attempt to find something to help me retrieve the radiator cap which I'd found! Not "down the drain" but down in the lower confines of the engine compartment, between the block and the crossmember. By the end of my short walk to the pay station and back, with a plastic 12" ruler as the only implement available which might help in the caps retrieval, the rag had blown out of the radiator cap neck. Retrieved the cap, using said rag wrapped around my hand, because the heat of the block was severe and the ruler proved ineffective. Cap in hand, I've heard that expression before but not in this context, topped up the radiator again, about 4 to 5 litres, then swiftly installed the cap.

Off again with one eye, and sometimes two, on the temp gauge this time. A long hot trip home resulted both for the Packard and for me. Gauge was up near the H mark all the way. Tried using the pusher fan, didn't appear to have much affect on matters. Varied speed, similar result. Did pull over twice to let the car cool down. First time, having learned a hard earned lesson, allowed it to cool sufficiently that I could remove the radiator cap without a Vesuvius like eruption. And it only took about 1 litre of water, so obviously not boiling, just very HOT. Second time, just let it cool, then proceeded home. Arriving home, clothing and self covered in rusty blotches, wife takes one look and says: "Don't touch anything, just get into the shower!"

Here endith my confession, and may the Packard Gods have mercy on me.

No photos this time, had my hands full just dealing with the mess I'd gotten myself into.

PS - Re-elected as Secretary, nobody else seemed interested in filling the position. Imagine that!

You're a brave man! those are some long distances for "testing the waters" Glad you didn't get scalded too bad by the hot water and engine.
I'm sure with the help of the minds here, you will be able to get her running cool!
First things I would check, Ignition timing and function of vacuum advance.
Quality of coolant/water. Try just running water? Flush out the radiator and block.

Mal, what a day huh. I know buddy I've felt your pain and I applaud you for staying in the fight to get home.

To address you post.
"Looks better the further you go" made me laugh, good one.

Thanks for the conversion and translations.

I inserted "bravely" for the descriptor, I've done the same at a gas station, glad I blinked because hot coolant jumped up at my face burning even my eyelid,

Something my wife would tell me too hahaha.

A couple question from a learning aspect. Is that how your car calls to get its cooling system to refilled?
What fluid did Packard use for your year car? Water?

Back then I'm sure Packard recommended water with advice to use anti-freeze when the climate dictates. I'm using pure water. Lead to believe that using green coolant can be detrimental to the integrity of the soldered joints in the radiator. Also intend to use water wetter which supposedly increases the heat transfer properties of water by up to 50% and inhibits corrosion. But first a flushing of the radiator and block. Note, the previous owner recored the radiator about 3 years ago so I'm hopeful it is good. He also only used water. Another theory is that, having been converted to 12V, the temp gauge is not giving an accurate reading. Have also been advised to check what type of thermostat is installed with further advice to only use a "wax pellet"(correct descriptor?) type thermostat. And test it in a saucepan of boiling water before installing it. I think I have read here that the water distribution tube can be accessed through the grill after removing the radiator, water pump, etc. If I've got that wrong I'd like to hear it now rather than find out while doing the job.

Hi Hal:

Traditional "green" (IAT or inorganic additive technology) antifreeze is compatible with copper/brass radiators and solder joints - it's the extended life "red" or OAT (organic additive technology) designed primarily for cars with aluminum engines and aluminum/plastic radiators that's questionable in our old cars. I've been using the "green" antifreeze year-round in my '34 Packard since I bought it in 1963, no radiator or cooling system problems yet.

Not that it's much extra work but on your 23rd series you'll have to remove the grille to remove the water distribution tube.

Yes, changing to 12-volt with the original 6-volt sensor will affect the reading of your temperature gauge.

Dave,

Thanks for the advice re the coolant, grill removal and the temp sensor.

Things electrical seem like magic to me, so thinking I might install a "mechanical" temp gauge under dash for accurate readings.

Good Evening Mal...Our 23 series ran hot when we purchased it. Flushing out the engine on both sides and removing a freeze plug on the left side and using a power washer can be really helpful. We found that we had a bad head gasket, although it did not look like it until we took the head off to see what was going on. New gasket definitely helped. We also found out that the distributor had weak springs that did not get the advance up to where it should be. We also moved the vacuum advance line from the bottom of the carburetor to a port on the intake manifold to allow the rebuilt distributor to advance a bit quicker in slow traffic. We also found a five bladed fan that moved more air than the four blade fan that the old girl came with. I have also known cars that had their radiators painted with paint that inhibited the heat transfer. We also found that our car had a restrictive incorrect muffler and a slightly smaller diameter tail pipe than is optimum. The muffler should be of the straight through design. We ended up using a 36 inch long 3.5 inch glass pack muffler. The sound from the engine seems to be about the same The 23 series will run cool, but everything must be right. Good Thoughts! Ernie

Seems like you need one of Peter Packard's special reverse radiator flushes. Can assure you - it works great!

Hi Mal, when I had my super Clipper, it ran hot as well. I borrowed a Fluke thermal imaging gun, and I discovered that the thermostat had failed in the closed position (wouldn't open). A new thermostat solved that issue.

Ernie, Thanks for the wealth of information.

Noel, I'm seriously considering that. But with Peter away in NZ for the Destination Warbirds Rally, not likely to happen for a while.

Lyndon, Online, I've ordered a "cheap" infrared thermometer. Will give that go to discover how hot is hot.