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Thank you Howard,
I'll check it out...

Or these on eBay?

Another update and a quick question.............
I'm getting close to firing the engine after a complete rebuild. In the past, I've always circulated the oil and checked the oil pressure using a drill motor and a long shaft. However, on this motor the oil pump is driven off the cam, so I wont be able to use the same procedure.

Any suggestions on circulating the oil prior to firing the engine?
Thanks Steve P

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There have been a few different pumps mentioned -- some hand operated, others by a drill motor -- but most all have involved using a plumbing fitting which can thread into one of the main gallery ports on the passenger side of engine and then pressurize the engine. A couple have used the lower or oil filter/sender supply port on the drivers side which also connects to the main gallery. Here is an inexpensive HF hand pump that I used.https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=149890#forumpost149890

Howard,
That's good stuff............Thank you for all the input.
Regards,
Steve

To flood the engine with oil before starting, you can use an old oil filter housing without an element in it; fill it with oil and connect it to the galley with temporary fittings and use some compressed air at the filter inlet to force the oil thru the system. Rotate the engine by hand slowly while doing that such that the rod holes to the wrist pins align at least once and the cylinder walls get at least one squirt. Assuming you prepacked some light grease or heavy oil in the pump and used a preassembly lube, you should not have any concerns.

Yesterday was a bittersweet day.
I was able to start the rebuild with a couple turns of the engine. It fired right up , holding 40 lbs of oil pressure.

Howard, thanks for the HF Hand Pump suggestion. $7 ...worked great!

After a couple of minutes, I noticed water seeping between 4 and 5 cylinders. I first thought that the head gasket was leaking, but after further investigation I discovered the block had hairline crack. Needless to say, I was bummed out.
However, the good news is it can be repaired by one of the local speed shops which I delivered this morning.

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Mine was cracked in the same area. I repaired it myself using a kit from Lock-N-Stich in under 3 hours.

Engine Rebuild completed today.....ready to go back in the car. The crack in the block was repaired successfully and now runs like a Packard should.

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Quick update and question regarding provenance....

After struggling with a block that was cracked in two different locations, I had no choice but to find a replacement.

With the help from the folks in the Packard Club, I was able to find a block that suited my needs.
Today, I was able to fire the rebuild and it ran perfect.
After four months, I will be able to get my car on the road once again.
My question is regarding the documentation for the provenance of the car. How should I document the replacement block. The serial number and the casting dates of the replacement block are in line with the car but, I know that it is no longer the original motor.
Is this something worth documenting or just fade away?

Any comments, would be appreciated.
Regards,

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