Don't muck around do you Barrie? When you break something it sure is broken! But good to see you've got the replacement parts and the housing fixed.

Thanks, everyone. I've got exactly what BigKev's pic shows. I could not hand-turn a 3/8"-24 bolt in, but if that's what fits, maybe I need to douse mine good with WD-40 to get some junk out. If rust, might even have to lightly run a 3/8"-24 tap through.

G'day all, I am sure that this was a reasonably hot topic amongst the designers of the "suicide door" concept. I am yet to hear of any fatalities from the inherient door design, although there have probably been many fatalities from exiting a car with suicide doors at any speed, the end result would have been regardless of the door design. To me it is similar to being in Vietnam in a UH-1B helicopter in 1968 with the sliding side doors open and the fear of falling out as it bucked around. This fear doesn't normally result in an actual exit incident.
The unfortunate fall-out of the young girl did not specify if she held onto the door, which would almost certainly pull her out.
I have a few cars with suicide doors and try to educate occupants to engage the door handle in the "lock" position when travelling, just in case.
Nowadays we have to be very cautious in carrying people unfamiliar with older design concepts, sort of the reverse to what you have to teach old farts such as myself about new concepts, such as wireless broadand and GPS units. I personally hate the concept of electric windows, without the ability to open the windows if the ignition is switched off. Best Regards Peter Toet

Received my new/refurbished bendix from US today - price $33.50, shipping was $43.00! I was very lucky to still find it at a reasonable price. I can recommend these guys from West Virginia - Thompson Electric Service - fast and friendly. The bendix housing was also welded up. Hope it will be strong enough now.

Attach file:

---

  (51.66 KB)


  (46.71 KB)

The nut is the same for 55-56. And if you buy the original style webbing for the skirts, make sure you buy the 1/16th thick webbing, NOT the 1/8th thick. The screw is 3/8-24 X 1 and is stainless steel. The part number for the screw seems very late as it is a 6485345 but is listed for 55 and 56. I believe the same style of screw and bolt was used on the 22nd and 23rd series and up thru the 50s.

The nut is welded to the inside of the rear portion of the wheel opening on the '54 bodies.

Attach file:

---

  (33.34 KB)

MrPB. Would you know the difference so the bolts are not listed as applicable for 55-6?

Jeff, these fasteners are custom made, by Americans, making a living wage (but far from getting rich), these items are not commonly available from retail hardware suppliers, they are custom-made to be exactly what was used originally, so no loss of judging points. That kind of small market, attention to detail that isn't made in a third world country costs money.

Quote:

Pat, Back in the early 1950's my grandfather owed a 1939 Pontiac with "suicide rear doors. One day while driving along with some of my siblings in the car the driver side rear door suddenly flew open while crossing a set of railroad tracks and my 2 year old younger sister fell out onto the street. Luckily she was only scraped and bruised.

Your trim should indeed be stainless, not chrome. It also must be 22nd shape. the 23rd is considerably different.
The attached photo is a mirror on a 22nd series.

Attach file:

---

  (84.58 KB)