All 356 engines are 9 main. Not all 9 main engines are 356's. I believe Eric was looking for a 327 or 359 9 main, can't remember which.

Odd... in the Packard section under Engine, Replace in my Motors manual (1954 17th edition, second printing) it says:
"1940-42 except Clippers-- The general procedure for removing the engine is the same as that given below except that the fenders and grille must be removed as a unit. The engine may then be hoisted through the top of the engine compartment." It then goes on to list 18 detailed steps to remove an engine for the 1941-54 series which ultimately ends with hoisting the engine up and out. I'm just curious as to which Motors manual and where in that manual you are finding information on removing from below. Somehow I must have missed it.

Great... Now if there was just a way to permanently mark this thread in a way to keep it out of my unread list of threads it would be perfect. It would just cease to exist for me.

They were dry on my '50 also. Based on an e-mail conversation with Dick Benjamin I also filled 'em up with hydraulic jack fluid. They worked beautifully... except... the following day most of the fluid was on the garage floor. They really leaked. So, I sent them off to Apple Hydraulics and got them back last week. They look spectacular and I'll be re-installing them when I get back home from this hideously expensive driving trip I'm on. Just drove past the Dakotas through Nebraska yesterday. Currently in a crummy motel room (but with WIFI) in Ely, Nevada on my way to CA. Wish I was back home slapping Por-15 on the newly prepped splash panels.

You aren't the only one to up Mal's ante on e-bay. I've unwittingly done the same thing. Happily I wasn't the guy that pushed up the final bid. I really don't like e-bays new 'hide the bidder' philosophy. I like to know when I'm bidding against vendors or somebody I know needs the thing more than I do.

I agree. Just the geometry of the knobs on the dash would seem to indicate a non-Packard installation. I Googled the following fromhttp://www.futurliner.com/autronic.htm

...The next clue to check the serial number printed on a paper sticker on the amplifier. If the amplifier was mounted under the hood of the car for a long time the tag maybe deteriorated and fell off. The phototube had a metal tag in the years 1952 through 59 and a paper tag between the phototube and mounting in 1960 through 66. The serial number consists of nine digits. The first digit indicated the division this unit was sent to. The second and third digits indicated what year the unit when into. The remaining 6 digits indicated the serial number starting with number one. If you run across a very high number starting with the 100,000 range, this means there may have been a minor mid year production change.
Here is a breakdown of the model and serial numbers as they apply to the various car lines;
156 000001 Chevrolet
256 000001 Pontiac
356 000001 Oldsmobile
456 000001 Buick
556 000001 Cadillac
857 000001 Lincoln. An "A" will follow the serial number 1964 and up
864 000001-B Mercury
864 000001-C Ford
756 000001 Warrant Replacement.

My 23rd Series is as described by HH56 above. The Map Light switch turns on the courtesy lights which are also controlled by the front door switches. No bulb in switch.

Mal, Are you sure there is supposed to be beading on the front fender? My '41 limo has beading for the rear fender but not the front. I can't tell from the parts book.

Just to corroborate 'Owen_Dyneto' and 'HH56' with a real-world push of the hopefully unmolested maplite button on my 23rd Series... the map lights operate without the the ignition/accessory being on and it's not dependent on any other switch.

I think it may have to do with an 'illegal' character in the photo name. If that's the case, Big Kev will have to fix it for you.