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Re: cylinder head stud torque
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Home away from home
 
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Yes, it's correct and reasonable. You should torque the head in three passes at roughly 20, 40, and then 60-62 ft.lbs using the sequence diagram.
Posted on: 2013/1/25 10:30
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Re: cylinder head stud torque
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Home away from home
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That torque spec is for the nut not the stud. I have replaced studs, but it was a long time ago. Do not recall how tight they were screwed into the block, but would think they would only need to be tightened down to the end of the threads. The torqued nut, it seems to me, should pull up on the stud. Maybe someone with experience on stud replacement can comment.
(o{}o)
Posted on: 2013/1/25 11:14
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We move toward
And make happen What occupies our mind... (W. Scherer) |
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Re: cylinder head stud torque
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Forum Ambassador
 
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JW, I've replaced lots of studs on L-head cylinder blocks and didn't do anything special. I shellaced the threads, threaded them in until the thread bottoms out, and then used my stud installer/remover and just gave them a reasonable snug with the wrench; I never measured the torque I applied to the studs but I probably used just an ordinary 10" 1/2" drive ratchet, so certainly far less than 60 ft-lbs, perhaps in the 10-20 range.
Picture of one of many types of stud remover/installers just for those not familiar with them. Attach file:  (147.58 KB)
Posted on: 2013/1/25 12:08
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