Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

Dear All,

How do I remove the rear spring front shackle bolts on my Light Eight? As you can see from the pictures below, the area for access to the nut is quite tight. Does the pin freely-ish rotate in the shackle mount? Can I rotate it using some sort of large specialty screwdriver that fits the bolt cap (second photo)?

Any help much appreciated, as always.

Cheers,

Tom

Attach file:

---

  (59.30 KB)


  (40.41 KB)

Not sure about the details of how to remove, but that was one of the design eoonomies of the 900 series - elimination of the "bung" or access cover on the running board apron which gave access to the shacke bolt retaining nut. But on those models that had the access cover, the shackle bolt could not rotate because it had a flat on the head to align the oil passages and this locked it from rotating. Looking at your pictures, I suspect you've got to hold the bolt head from rotating and remove the nut.

Quote:

Right, the problem is removing the cotter pin from the slotted nut. If I can't rotate the pin, I will have to remove the fender and valence panel. I have a hard time believing that Packard would make this maintenance exercise that difficult.

Edit: Added photo detail showing cotter pin

Attach file:

---

  (122.10 KB)

Well, in the first place I don't think Packard comtemplated the problems of service after the car had reached this ripe old age. Can you not rotate the bolt by turning the nut such that the cotter pin is in a more accessible position? Or perhaps drill the cotter pin out? Or use a Dremel to grind off one end of the cotter, and then push thru or drill?

I did browse the 1932 Service Letters about the Light Eight after my first post and found one entry about the springs and shackles, but it was descriptive of the design and offered no service information.

But isn't this type of thing part of the joy of having these cars? Problems encountered - problems solved and new information to pass along to the next person or generation with the same issue?

Quote:

Dave,

I absolutely completely agree! I love this hobby because it involves doing research using both ones mind and hands. I guess I will see if we can rotate the thing. I will report back on my findings.

I have one other question. I would like to replace the slotted nuts, but I can't seem to find grade 5 5/8-18 slotted nuts. Is it OK to use grade 2 in this application? I have checked at McMaster, Fastenal, Bolt Depot, Bolts-r-We, etc. for grade 5, but no luck so far.

Tom

Here's some Mil spec AN310 nuts which are probably better than grade 2.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=AN310

Howard,

Thanks for the link. Unfortunately, those are castle nuts, which are too tall to fit on the shackle bolts and have the cotter pin holes line up.

I found some SAE nuts that will work.

Tom

Getting that nut off is not going to be the problem. Getting the wore out pin will take effort that may not be applied without being able to drive on the pin. I would use the nut with key to turn that pin to a position that appears the wore out portion is against metal, then burst the nut off with a sharp chisel. You will just about have to get that pin in a absolutely no load position to be able to get it out. The type of nut you are looking for may well be the type that is used on a later model car spindle.

Apologies if I'm stating the obvious, but if you remove the rear shackle and the U-bolts holding the spring to the axle, you'll relieve all the load off the forward shackle bolt other than the simple weight of the spring.

Quote: that's how it was done when the rear springs were changed on young Mat's '34 which would be similar I believe. Although looking at Tom's pic's there doesn't appear to be much room for driving the shackle pin out that's how it was done with Mat's. Required using the drift and persuader(hammer) at an angle but it came out OK. Some penetrant too would help to loosen the grip the car has on the pin.