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Can anyone tell me if it's possible to install a 288 with the Ultramatic already bolted on?

Looking at the Workshop Manual it only gives info on Removal and Installation of the Ultramatic when the engine is fitted. I don't have a hoist so it's all ground-level work.

My car came 'disassembled' so I don't know if it's do-able. Seems an easier way than mating the gearbox while lying under the car.

Absolutely. However, I believe the manual says the nose has to be off, although I don't see why especially if the car is on jack stands and the radiator is out.

I always pulled the nose because it's a one man job with the hoist.

Even is the radiator is out, the core support will be in the way. And the front of the fenders basically hang off the core support in the 51-54 models. So it really can be done without the front of the sheet metal off. You are talking over 1000 lbs of weight with the motor and tranny together. No matter what you are going to need a hoist or something.

Also, you cant go in from the bottom as the crossmember is in the way. You need something to lower the motor in from the top. Either a engine hoist with long legs, or a beam mounted winch hoist.

No problem at all with the nose off. You may install the engine fully assembled with the Ultra and all cooling lines. You especially want to have the cooling lines on, also the the rear crossmember. That will neatly catch on the frame as you slip it into place so you don't have to support the back of the trans.

It is possible to do this with the nose on, but you will have to cut out the top bar of the core support and push the diagonal out of the way.

When I put my 288 back in, I couldn't spear the manual transmission, so I took it out and put it back together on the floor, where everything was level. I then used my Harbor Freight engine hoist and a screw type engine leveler, three of us raised the engine and transmission, tilted it at about a 45 degree angle and speared it back into the car. We did have to cut the top radiator support brace off like Ross said. Much easier this way, but still not a one man job. You need one guy running the hoist, one bracing the engine from the top, and one on the bottom of the car. Start making friends with old mechanics who like working for beer!

Thanks to all you guys for the information. It's a relief to know it can be done. Car is raised quite a way off the garage floor so hopefully it will swing in ok. I was going to remove the radiator support frame anyway. That will only take a few minutes. And I can easily take the sheet metal (guards/fenders) etc) off to make it easier. I've got an engine crane and quite a few friends who like a beer so no problem there.

The overall heavy lift of 1000lbs means lifting it all with assistance of slings also as I wouldn't want to subject the cylinder head studs to that much strain by using the standard method stated in the Manual, although I suspect that two studs would probably hold that sort of weight. If one did happen to pull out or stretch that would be a major problem . . . Not worth the risk.