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ebay.com/itm/Packard-1951-Deluxe-line-ra ... ts_Cars&hash=item417785a1ef&vxp=mtr

FYI I came across this 51 Packard with AIR CONDITIONING being sold as a parts car on ebay. $1500.00 no reserve.

That looks to be a nice complete looking under dash AC unit. Would probably clean up and be very serviceable. Not sure I would use the compressor but hope the rest of it finds a good home.

Did you see the 55 clipper on CL in Seattle this months for 3grand? it was amazing and it must have sold. the old guy who owned its name was Harold. There's some good care up here in WA.

at the risk of rehashing an old debate, this is an aftermarket AC system in a 6V car. Is there a provision to avoid freeze up and can someone tell what it is? how is the compressor belt being driven (aftermarket new pulley?)

I picked up my car from the same general area as where this one is located and it appears to be a pretty solid parts car. The AC and running gear parts alone could proove to be worth the haul and what appears to be good solid sheet metal is a bonus.

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Some do freeze but typically the hang on units rely on a thermostat to cycle the compressor on and off. Some have a fixed range while others are operator adjustable -- but with a lower limit set around the freezing point. Air flow also has a lot to do with freeze up. Higher blower speed usually keeps the warmer air flowing fast enough to keep the coil at a higher temp or any water condensing on the coil moved or blown around before it has a chance to freeze. Some units by design --or lack of it -- have pockets where air doesn't flow well and are more prone to freeze. On all, if the sensing bulb for some reason isn't inserted in the evaporator coil deep enough can also freeze.

Most of the fixed range thermostats available have a wide range -- one mentions 30.5 to 45 degrees. It will let the evaporator start to freeze before shutting off and keeps it off until the evaporator has warmed back to 45. That low off point combined with a low speed on the blower could well freeze up if on long enough. I also find that wide of range to be uncomfortable because the air gets moist and musty before the compressor cycles on again. Modern cars with factory air now typically use that fixed thermostat method to prevent icing and a blend door for the temp adjust.

I couldn't tell on that 51 how the pulley was driven. If anyone looks at the car, some photos of that detail would be nice.

and cycling the compressor on and off means the elusive 6 volt clutch!

Several have mentioned the Sanden clutch handles 6v reasonably well and there are a few units known to be in operation. Don't have any feedback data or first hand experience from those people -- other than they say it works. I'm just in the process of starting to play with mine so nothing concrete in the way of data to report.

I have already done some work testing a modern evaporator blower with a 12v motor running on 6v. This is the type motor with multiple leads out for 3 fixed speeds -- not the electronic control type or those with only 2 leads and a rheostat/resistor speed selection. I had an under dash unit from a previous project and bought an Old Air trunk unit for the 47. Both have been running on 6v for hours at a time.

Aside from a lower blower output -- maybe equivalent to a medium to medium high speed instead of a full 12v high speed -- both seem to be handling 6v very well. No sign of stress or overheating in any of the electric components so far. Posted actual numbers in another thread but IIRC, amps are in the 6-7 range at high.

Should something prove it will need a 6v motor, the OldAir unit is single shaft and modular so it will be easy to adapt a regular heater motor. Of course, that would also require some change to the electric as most modern universal heater motors are 2 lead and use resistor control.

For anyone else contemplating a 6v application, so far if you could put up with a lower airflow, it looks to be a possibility. I think there are a couple of units made for under dash use that have a single shaft motor but haven't researched those enough to know if they are a candidate for a motor swap if one is proven to be needed.

Here's my story:

My 54 Packard Cavalier has add-on A/C that runs on an add-on 12 volt system separate from the cars 6 volt system; positive ground. I'm not switching it to 12 volts or 8 volts.

The small 12 volt alternator will not keep up with the A/C load.

The Sanden Compressor clutch won't engage on 6.5 volts and it barley engages when the 6 volt system is above 7 volts but it is quirky so I gave up on that idea

My little alternator will be very difficult to remove for service because of the way it is stuffed in under the A/C compressor so I am looking for alternatives

I have considered running the A/C fan on the 6 volt system which will produce ? fan speed on the fast setting which may actually be faster than the slow speed on 12 volts.

I can't run the A/C fan higher than the slow setting without running down the 12 volt battery so 6 volts may actually run it faster. There is the question of if the fan motor is internally grounded and will it turn the right direction on a Positive ground car. If the fan motor is permanent magnet I believe it will be polarity sensitive.

I would keep the temperature control system and clutch running on the 12 volt system as it has a lower current draw.

The factory 6 volt system is rated at 45 Amps, I considered getting a 6 to 12 volt DC-DC converter but with the A/C running the converter load gets on the high side and too high with lights and radio on.

I don't know if factory A/C equipped Packard's came with a heavier generator.